Pimkie Faces Legal, Industry Backlash Over Controversial Shein Deal

Core Insights - The partnership between French brand Pimkie and Chinese ultra-fast-fashion company Shein through the Xcelerator program has sparked significant controversy and legal challenges within the fashion industry [1][2]. Company Summary - Pimkie's CEO Salih Halassi announced the partnership, which aims to create 50 jobs in France and support retail expansion, including the opening of 20 physical stores in 2023 and more in 2026 [4]. - The partnership is expected to generate 100 million euros in sales by 2028, focusing on a low-cost Pimkie-branded line that will not be available in physical stores [5]. Legal and Industry Reactions - The Association Familiale Mulliez, former owners of Pimkie, plans to file a lawsuit against the company, claiming the Shein deal violates the terms of Pimkie's 2023 sale and misuses 140 million euros intended to preserve the brand's autonomy [2]. - The French Federation of Women's Ready-to-Wear supports the legal action, criticizing the partnership as a betrayal of the industry's values of responsibility, transparency, and sustainability [6][7]. Industry Context - Shein is reported to account for 5% of all apparel sales and 20% of online sales in Europe, with 4.5 billion parcels expected to be shipped into the region in 2024 [11]. - Industry groups have raised concerns about Shein's business practices, alleging tax evasion, customs fraud, and violations of intellectual property laws, which they argue create an uneven playing field for local brands [12][13]. Regulatory Landscape - European fashion and textile associations are advocating for new regulations to limit the influence of ultra-fast-fashion companies like Shein, including calls to abolish the EU's under-150 euro package exemption and introduce a parcel tax [10][13]. - The industry is preparing for national-level measures to address these challenges, although such fragmentation may complicate compliance for brands operating across Europe [14][15].