Champagne sales surge at New Year — but labor abuses and tariffs have clouded the industry

Core Insights - The Champagne industry is facing significant challenges related to labor exploitation and declining sales, particularly due to recent scandals involving the treatment of migrant workers and external economic pressures [2][5][15]. Labor Conditions - Approximately 120,000 seasonal workers harvest grapes across 34,000 hectares in France, but reports have emerged of exploitation and mistreatment, particularly of foreign and undocumented migrants [2][3]. - The 2023 harvest was marred by the deaths of at least four migrant workers during an extreme heatwave, highlighting poor working conditions, including excessive hours, low pay, and inadequate safety measures [3][5]. - A trial in 2025 resulted in convictions for human trafficking and exploitation of over 50 West African workers, revealing "hellish" living conditions and the use of subcontractors by Champagne houses to evade responsibility [6][7][9]. Industry Response - The Comité Champagne acknowledged the damage to the industry's reputation from the court case and has committed to a "zero tolerance" approach towards future abuses, launching a "Together for the Champagne Harvest" action plan to improve worker conditions [9][10]. - Major producers like Moët & Chandon have begun investing in better accommodations for workers, with a reported investment of €1.5 million ($1.76 million) to increase capacity for seasonal workers [11]. Sales and Market Trends - The Champagne industry has seen a decline in shipments, with 299 million bottles shipped in 2023, down 8.2% from the previous year, and 271 million bottles in 2024, attributed to falling global demand and U.S. import tariffs [15][16]. - The 2024 harvest was affected by adverse weather conditions, resulting in lower yields, while the 2025 harvest was noted for its high quality due to better weather [4][14]. Internal Challenges - Labor unions have called for strikes over issues such as the cancellation of year-end bonuses and demands for better pay, indicating ongoing tensions within the workforce [16][17]. - The industry is under pressure to address both external market challenges and internal labor disputes, which could further impact sales and reputation [17].