赵茜雅|舌尖上的理性与权力:饮食如何影响国家治理?
Xin Lang Cai Jing·2026-01-06 05:03

Core Perspective - French cuisine is renowned globally for its exquisite cooking methods, delicious dishes, and elegant dining etiquette, which contribute to its image as high-end gastronomy. The resistance against American fast food and Coca-Cola in France highlights the deep connection between food and national identity, as well as the political implications of dietary choices [1]. Group 1: Historical Context - The evolution of French cuisine began in the early 16th century with the arrival of Italian chefs at the French court, establishing France as a culinary leader in Europe. Modern French cuisine took shape in the 19th century after the upheaval of the French Revolution [1]. - Emma C. Spary's research connects food science with social transformation during the Enlightenment and Revolution in France, as seen in her works "Eating the Enlightenment" and "Feeding France" [1][7]. Group 2: Scientific Influence on Cuisine - The field of food history has advanced significantly in the past thirty years, integrating food studies with environmental, colonial, and imperial histories, thus transitioning from popular history to more specialized research [7]. - Spary's approach includes chefs and winemakers as producers of scientific knowledge, linking science, food, and Enlightenment thought, which challenges traditional views of scientific history that focus solely on theoretical developments [7][10]. Group 3: Food and Society - The 18th century saw a critical examination of obesity among the wealthy, with a growing emphasis on moderation and health as societal ideals. This shift was influenced by scientific understandings of nutrition and the human body [12][16]. - The concept of "economy" in the 18th century encompassed not only frugality but also a systemic approach to resource management, reflecting societal crises and the need for effective governance [19][20]. Group 4: Role of State and Science - The state played a crucial role in the production and dissemination of scientific knowledge, establishing institutions like academies and medical schools that were funded by the government to support national governance [21][24]. - The government utilized scientific knowledge to guide public consumption and maintain social order, especially during food shortages, by promoting substitutes for traditional foods and encouraging rational consumption [22][24]. Group 5: Impact on Modern Food Practices - Spary's works illustrate how the scientific understanding of food has shaped dietary practices and societal norms, emphasizing the importance of moderation and health in the context of national stability [26]. - Despite the push for new food products and practices, traditional foods like wheat bread and sugar have retained their significance, indicating a complex relationship between innovation and established habits in French cuisine [26].