Tiffany 'Bird on a Rock'珠宝图案手表
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Artisans recast landmark Tiffany designs into horological form
FT· 2026-03-06 04:00
Core Insights - Tiffany & Co, acquired by LVMH for approximately $16 billion in 2021, is focusing on revitalizing its watch division, which has historically been overshadowed by other luxury brands [1] - The brand is introducing Swiss watches that incorporate its jewelry designs, particularly high-end pieces that merge watchmaking and jewelry craftsmanship [2] Group 1: Watch Division Development - Tiffany has a long history in watchmaking, dating back to the mid-19th century, but its recent efforts have shifted towards creating luxury watches that reflect its jewelry heritage [1][2] - New models, such as the HardWear and Union Square, are positioned in the mid-range luxury market, starting at around £3,000, while high-end pieces are being developed to appeal to luxury consumers [2] Group 2: Design Influence - The "Bird on a Rock" motif, a signature design from 1965 by Jean Schlumberger, is being utilized in several new watch models, showcasing Tiffany's commitment to its artistic legacy [3] - The Enamel Diamond Watch features a design inspired by Schlumberger's 1962 paillonné enamel bangle, which is a significant piece in Tiffany's history [4] Group 3: Craftsmanship and Production - The enameling process for the watches involves skilled artisans from Limoges, known for their expertise in decorative techniques, and is a labor-intensive process that can take up to 55 hours for a single ring [22][29] - The creation of the Tiffany Blue color required extensive development, emphasizing the meticulous nature of the enameling process, which includes listening to the sound of the materials to ensure quality [28] Group 4: Market Positioning - Tiffany aims to produce only 15 pieces per year of the Enamel Diamond Watch, highlighting its exclusivity and the brand's strategy to position itself within the high-end luxury watch market [29] - The introduction of the Enamel Diamond Watch is seen as a potential legacy piece for Tiffany, translating its jewelry design into the realm of watchmaking [30]