Ermenegildo Zegna(ZGN) - 2025 Q2 - Earnings Call Transcript

Financial Data and Key Metrics Changes - In H1 2025, revenues reached €928 million, a decrease of 2% organically, despite a strong 6% organic growth in DTC channels [3][4] - Gross profit was €626 million, with a margin of 67.5%, reflecting a 110 basis points improvement driven by a better channel mix [4][5] - Adjusted EBITDA for the group was €69 million, with an EBITDA margin of 7.4%, down 100 basis points compared to H1 2024 [6][7] - Net profit increased to €48 million, up 53% from €31 million in the previous year, attributed to higher financial income and foreign exchange gains [9][10] - Capital expenditure (CapEx) was €54 million, representing about 6% of revenues, primarily focused on store network development [11] Business Line Data and Key Metrics Changes - The Zegna segment generated an adjusted EBITDA of €94 million, with a margin of 14.3%, up from 12.8% in H1 2024, due to higher operating leverage [8] - Thom Browne's adjusted EBITDA fell to €4 million from €20 million in H1 2024, driven by a significant revenue decline in the wholesale channel [8] - Tom Ford Fashion recorded an adjusted EBITDA loss of €90 million, worsening from a €12 million loss last year, due to planned investments in store expansion and IT infrastructure [9] Market Data and Key Metrics Changes - The company noted strong momentum in Europe, the Middle East, and the Americas, while the Greater China Region (GCR) remains challenging and volatile [16] - There are early signs of improvement in GCR, but the company remains cautious about drawing conclusions from recent trends [16] Company Strategy and Development Direction - The company is focusing on expanding its DTC network, with new store openings in key markets like Miami and Shanghai [14] - A marketing campaign for Zegna's Fall-Winter 25 collection has been launched, emphasizing the brand's heritage and new fabric innovations [13] - The company is committed to maintaining strategic investments while managing costs, particularly in the context of a volatile market environment [16] Management's Comments on Operating Environment and Future Outlook - Management acknowledged the challenging and volatile sector environment but expressed confidence in the actions taken to protect profitability [7][16] - The company is planning for a cautious approach in China, anticipating a "new normal" rather than a rapid recovery [59] Other Important Information - Free cash flow absorption was €23 million in H1 2025, compared to €7 million in the previous year, driven by lower operating cash flow [11] - The net debt at the end of June was approximately €92 million, consistent with the previous reporting period [12] Q&A Session Summary Question: Current performance in terms of margin and expectations for H2 - Management explained that the gross margin improvement is linked to the DTC revenue growth and emphasized the importance of maintaining quality in DTC sales [22][23] Question: Opportunities for margin improvement in the Zegna segment - Management indicated that Zegna's margins could trend between 13% and 14% for the year, with a long-term goal of reaching 15% [32] Question: Current trends in the Chinese market - Management noted early signs of improvement in GCR but remained cautious about the overall recovery, emphasizing the need for a stable environment before making definitive conclusions [16][59] Question: Pricing strategy and consumer response - Management confirmed that price increases have been implemented to offset costs and tariffs, with no significant negative consumer response observed [53][56]