中国人买下的波尔多酒庄,经济上行期的梦幻泡影
Hu Xiu·2025-10-16 07:26

Core Insights - Chinese capital once surged into Bordeaux, making wine estates a symbol of wealth and taste, but the reality has turned grim over the years [1][3][14] Group 1: Investment Trends - Since 2008, Chinese investors have purchased approximately 150 Bordeaux estates, which represent a minuscule portion of the Bordeaux region, yet their symbolic significance exceeds economic value [2][16] - The initial enthusiasm for investing in Bordeaux wine estates has diminished, with reports of low-priced sales, asset seizures, and debt issues among Chinese owners [3][17] Group 2: Case Studies - The Latour Laguens estate, owned by Chinese investor Cheng Haiyan, is listed for sale at a starting price of €150,000 (approximately 1.25 million RMB), highlighting the decline in value of such investments [4] - Cheng Haiyan's attempts to transform the estate into a resort with wine tasting rooms and accommodations involved over 10 million RMB in investments, but ultimately failed due to poor business performance [6][7] Group 3: Cultural and Operational Challenges - Many Chinese investors have struggled with the traditional operational models of French wine estates, often underestimating the costs and time required for profitability [26] - Cultural clashes have also been evident, as seen in the controversial renaming of estates by Chinese investors, which sparked protests and backlash from local officials and cultural commentators [11][12] Group 4: Market Dynamics - The demand for Bordeaux wine in China has halved since 2017, with exports dropping to about 40 million bottles annually, down from a peak of 80 million [17][18] - The overall Chinese wine market is experiencing a cooling period, with significant declines in wine imports and a shift in consumer preferences towards other alcoholic beverages [18][21] Group 5: Future Outlook - Despite the exit of some investors, a new wave of younger, internationally experienced Chinese buyers is beginning to enter the Bordeaux market, aiming to integrate wine estates with tourism and outdoor activities [27]