杯卖酒价格疯涨？！米其林餐厅开始撑不住了？

Core Insights - The high-end dining sector is facing unprecedented challenges, with rising costs, changing consumer habits, and regulatory impacts forcing restaurant operators to reconsider their business models [2][11][14] Price Increases in Wine - In San Francisco, the price of a glass of wine has surged, with some restaurants charging up to $25 (approximately 180 RMB) and even higher, raising concerns among operators and patrons [3][5] - A 5-ounce glass of Russian River Chardonnay at La Mar Cebicheria costs $35, while Alsace Grand Cru Riesling is priced at $24, reflecting significant price increases compared to previous years [3] - The average price of white wine at Octavia rose by 12.5% over two years, from about $16 to over $18, and red wine prices at Prospect increased by over 16%, from $18 to $21 [3] Factors Driving Price Increases - A 15% increase in EU wine tariffs since August 2025 has raised wholesale costs for importers and restaurants [5] - Rising labor costs in San Francisco are compelling restaurant operators to raise wine prices [5] - Changing drinking habits among younger generations, who are consuming less alcohol, are forcing restaurants to compensate for lost revenue due to decreased sales [5] Strategies to Mitigate Costs - Some establishments are adopting innovative pricing strategies, such as "mixed markup" to balance prices across different wine selections [5] - Bar Bibi's owner is encouraging customers to try lesser-known, cost-effective wine varieties to offset high tariffs [5] - Many operators are striving to find a balance between rising costs and customer expectations, hoping that price increases do not alienate core customers [7] Restaurant Closures - In the UK, rising operational costs and declining consumer spending have led to the closure of several restaurants, including the Michelin-recommended Sesta in Hackney, which will close on December 20 [8][10] - The high-end dining scene in China is also struggling, with the number of high-end restaurants halving over three years, and notable closures including the EHB restaurant in Shanghai, which opened in May 2023 and closed by September [11][13] - The trend of high-end restaurant closures reflects a shift from premium dining to more practical dining options, as traditional premium pricing strategies lose effectiveness [14]