149的优衣库和5000元老钱羊绒衫，谁在割韭菜？

Core Viewpoint - The article discusses the rise of cashmere as a symbol of class distinction, particularly through the influence of the Italian brand Loro Piana, which has mastered the control of raw materials and created a narrative around the exclusivity of its products [1][2][3]. Group 1: Loro Piana's Historical Context - Loro Piana's history is rooted in the control of raw materials, starting from its family's wool business in the Piedmont region of Italy in the 19th century [2]. - Post-World War II, Loro Piana shifted its focus to the Paris fashion scene, supplying high-end fabrics to luxury brands [3][4]. Group 2: Material Control and Innovation - In the 1960s, Loro Piana identified the need for lighter fabrics due to the rise of air travel and began sourcing high-quality Merino wool from Tasmania [5][6]. - The brand introduced the concept of fiber fineness as a measure of quality, with lower micron counts indicating superior softness and luxury [8][10]. Group 3: Vertical Integration Strategy - Loro Piana adopted a vertical integration strategy, controlling multiple stages of the supply chain from raw material sourcing to final sales [11]. - The brand monopolized Vicuña wool through exclusive agreements with the Peruvian government, ensuring a steady supply of this rare material [12][13]. Group 4: Expansion and Market Positioning - In 2013, LVMH acquired 80% of Loro Piana for €2 billion, enhancing its position in the luxury market and securing access to top-tier raw materials [16]. - Following the acquisition, Loro Piana's direct-to-consumer sales surged, with retail stores contributing over 85% of revenue by 2023, growing from €700 million in 2013 to €2.4 billion [16]. Group 5: Cultural Impact and Marketing - The brand's prominence was amplified by the 2018 TV series "Succession," which popularized the "quiet luxury" aesthetic, aligning with Loro Piana's understated yet high-quality offerings [18][19]. - The marketing narrative emphasizes a hierarchy of materials, where natural fibers are valued over synthetic ones, reinforcing a class distinction based on fabric choice [20][24]. Group 6: Economic Disparities - Despite the luxury branding and high prices, local communities involved in the production of raw materials, such as Vicuña wool, receive a minimal share of the profits, highlighting economic inequalities within the supply chain [36].