美妆企业失去流量红利，它们正在放弃达人直播 | 海斌访谈

Core Insights - The commission rate for influencer live streaming in the beauty industry is expected to rise significantly, from 40% in 2024 to 60% in 2025, indicating increasing costs for brands [1][5] - Domestic beauty brands are facing challenges due to rising traffic costs and a shift in consumer behavior, leading to a need for more sustainable business models [4][16] Group 1: Industry Trends - The rise of influencer live streaming has been crucial for the growth of domestic beauty brands, allowing them to gain market share against established foreign brands [4][15] - In 2024, domestic beauty brands surpassed foreign brands in market share, with Proya achieving over 10.7 billion yuan in revenue, becoming the first Chinese beauty brand to exceed 10 billion yuan [4][15] - The influencer-driven sales model is becoming less effective, with many brands transitioning to self-operated content to reduce dependency on high commission rates [6][8] Group 2: Financial Insights - Proya's sales expenses reached 5.16 billion yuan in 2024, accounting for 47.9% of its revenue, highlighting the high cost of marketing and promotion [5][14] - The growth rate of Proya's revenue in 2024 was 8 percentage points lower than the growth rate of its sales expenses, indicating diminishing returns on marketing investments [5] - Research and development (R&D) spending remains low in comparison to marketing expenses, with Proya's R&D investment at only 2.1 billion yuan, about 1.9% of its revenue [14][15] Group 3: Market Dynamics - The beauty market is experiencing a decline in new brand emergence, with existing brands struggling to maintain growth amid rising costs and competition [13][14] - The CPM (cost per thousand impressions) for advertising on short video platforms has surged from 30-50 yuan in 2020-2021 to 300 yuan during the 2025 Double Eleven shopping festival, reflecting increased advertising costs [13] - The competitive landscape is intensifying, with many brands needing to focus on product development and brand positioning rather than relying solely on traffic-driven sales strategies [14][16]