美妆企业失去流量红利，它们正在放弃达人直播

Core Insights - The beauty brand Opal's founder, Zhou Yan, highlighted the increasing commission rates for influencers in live streaming, projecting it to reach 60% by 2025, indicating a significant challenge for beauty companies in managing rising costs of traffic acquisition [1][5] - Domestic beauty brands have gained market share over foreign brands, with Proya achieving over 10.7 billion RMB in revenue in 2024, marking it as the first Chinese beauty brand to surpass the 10 billion RMB threshold [4][10] - The live streaming e-commerce model has been crucial for the rise of domestic beauty brands, but the industry is facing regulatory scrutiny and a shift towards self-broadcasting as influencer costs become unsustainable [4][6] Industry Challenges - The beauty industry is experiencing a "traffic anxiety," with companies like Proya heavily reliant on platforms like Douyin and Tmall, where online sales account for over 90% of their revenue [5][10] - Proya's sales expenses reached 5.16 billion RMB in 2024, constituting 47.9% of its revenue, with a notable increase in promotional costs, indicating diminishing returns on marketing investments [5][9] - The trend of relying on influencer marketing is declining, with companies urged to develop their own content capabilities to ensure long-term sustainability [6][7] Market Dynamics - The cost of acquiring traffic has surged, with CPM rates on short video platforms rising from 30-50 RMB in 2020-2021 to 300 RMB by 2025, necessitating a multi-channel approach to reduce costs [8][9] - The beauty market has seen a stagnation in new brand emergence, with existing brands needing to focus on product development and brand positioning to remain competitive [9][10] - The disparity in R&D investment between domestic and foreign brands is significant, with foreign companies like L'Oréal investing around 13 billion euros (approximately 100 billion RMB) in R&D, comparable to Proya's total revenue [10][11] Future Outlook - The current landscape suggests that while domestic brands have capitalized on the e-commerce boom, they face a long road ahead to compete with global giants like L'Oréal and Shiseido, particularly in terms of brand development and international expansion [11][12]