餐饮商家，集体上演“擦边餐”

Core Viewpoint - The article discusses the rise of "borderline economy" in the restaurant industry, where dining experiences are increasingly combined with entertainment elements to attract younger consumers, reflecting a shift in consumer preferences towards social and interactive dining experiences [5][10]. Summary by Sections Emergence of "Borderline Economy" - The restaurant industry is witnessing a trend where dining is paired with performances, as seen in establishments like Haidilao, which has introduced night-themed dining experiences featuring DJs and interactive performances to draw in customers [5][7]. - This shift is a response to the challenges of attracting young consumers, as traditional food offerings alone are no longer sufficient [5][9]. Consumer Experience and Engagement - Young consumers, particularly those born in the 1990s and 2000s, are seeking not just food but a comprehensive experience that includes social interaction and entertainment [9][10]. - The popularity of Haidilao's night-themed restaurants has led to significant social media engagement, with over 10 million views on Xiaohongshu and 9 million on Douyin [7]. Historical Context and Evolution - The combination of dining and entertainment is not new, with historical precedents in ancient marketplaces and tea houses, but current implementations are more aggressive and visually oriented [8]. - The article highlights that while entertainment can enhance the dining experience, it cannot replace the fundamental quality of food [12][19]. Risks and Challenges - The article points out that while the "borderline" approach may generate short-term interest, it poses risks for long-term sustainability, as seen in the decline of restaurants like Staneemeehoi and Hooters, which relied heavily on provocative marketing strategies [12][13]. - Regulatory scrutiny is increasing, with establishments facing penalties for inappropriate entertainment content, indicating a potential backlash against overly provocative dining experiences [12][14]. Alternative Approaches - A new trend of culturally rich performances is emerging, where dining experiences incorporate local traditions and culinary practices, providing a more authentic and sustainable model for attracting customers [17][19]. - The article emphasizes that successful "performance dining" should enhance rather than overshadow the quality of food, ensuring that the core dining experience remains appealing [20].