给顾客吃大象粪的「云南菜」，为什么那么火？

Core Viewpoint - The article discusses the rise of "Yunnan-Guizhou-Sichuan Bistro" restaurants in China, highlighting their unique culinary offerings and the underlying commercial strategies that drive their popularity, while also critiquing the authenticity and cultural representation of these establishments [4][75]. Group 1: Unique Culinary Offerings - A restaurant in Shanghai has introduced a dessert made from elephant dung, showcasing a trend of quirky and adventurous dining experiences [4][6][10]. - "Yunnan-Guizhou-Sichuan Bistro" focuses on visually appealing dishes that cater to social media sharing, with an average cost of 200-300 RMB per person, emphasizing flavors like sour, spicy, and fresh [15][18][41]. - The bistros often create immersive dining environments that mimic natural settings, enhancing the overall dining experience [16][44]. Group 2: Commercial Strategies - The bistros leverage an "information gap" strategy, targeting high-net-worth individuals in first-tier cities by transforming traditional street food into upscale dining experiences [24][26][27]. - Capital investment plays a crucial role in the rapid expansion of these bistros, with firms like Sequoia Capital backing several leading chains [81][83]. - The pricing strategy is notably high, with dishes priced significantly above their original cost in Yunnan, indicating a "price assassin" approach to attract a specific demographic [96][98]. Group 3: Cultural Critique - The article critiques the commercialization of Yunnan-Guizhou-Sichuan cuisine, arguing that the authentic flavors and cultural significance are often lost in the process of scaling and standardization [71][68]. - Many dishes, while visually appealing, lack the depth and authenticity of traditional recipes, leading to a perception of cultural dilution [68][72]. - The marketing strategies employed by these bistros often prioritize spectacle over substance, resulting in a dining experience that may not resonate with true culinary traditions [115][116].