涨价不灵的香奈儿，开始换个姿势「吃老本」

Core Viewpoint - Chanel is undergoing a significant transformation under the new artistic director Matthieu Blazy, moving away from its traditional designs to embrace a more modern and diverse aesthetic, reflecting a shift in brand strategy amidst a challenging luxury market [5][16][39]. Summary by Sections Design Changes - The Spring/Summer 2026 collection showcased at the Palais de Tokyo marked a departure from Chanel's classic styles, featuring a more casual and modern approach, with the first look inspired by men's tailoring [6][8]. - The iconic tweed suits appeared later in the show, indicating a shift towards a more relaxed and less formal style, moving away from the "elegant socialite" image [8][9]. - Blazy's design philosophy includes a "de-symbolization" of the brand, with a conscious effort to tone down recognizable elements like the double C logo [9][12]. Leadership Transition - Matthieu Blazy, appointed as the artistic director, aims to redefine Chanel's identity by revisiting its roots and incorporating modern elements, contrasting with the previous leadership's approach [12][31]. - The management's concern about Chanel's relevance in contemporary fashion is highlighted by a pivotal conversation between Blazy and chairman Alain Wertheimer, emphasizing the need for modernization [19][21]. Market Performance - Despite a decline in creativity, Chanel's sales surged to nearly $20 billion in 2023, largely due to aggressive price increases, with a reported 16% growth, 9% of which was attributed to price hikes [23][24]. - The brand's pricing strategy has led to significant increases in product prices, such as the Classic Flap bag, which has more than doubled since 2019 [24][26]. Consumer Perception - The brand's recent collections have sparked polarized reactions, with some critics questioning the shift towards a more accessible aesthetic, while others praise the representation of diverse and modern femininity [14][16]. - Social media has amplified concerns regarding product quality, leading to a growing perception of Chanel as relying on its legacy rather than innovation [26][39]. Future Outlook - Chanel is at a critical juncture, with leadership changes and a new creative direction aimed at revitalizing the brand's image and relevance in a competitive luxury market [36][39]. - The company is expected to take a long-term view on its transformation, allowing Blazy the time to implement changes that resonate with contemporary consumers [39].