A few weeks ago, I, someone who generally abstains from beef but is committed to understanding the modern power lunch, spent about six hours surrounded by hundreds of pounds of raw steak. I arrived at Delmonico's, a storied Wall Street steakhouse, at 7:10 am on a recent Wednesday, late by the restaurant's standards. The first employees had already been there for 10 minutes, vacuuming the many dining rooms and unboxing lettuce in the downstairs prep kitchen. In spending the day at the nearly 200-year-old res ...