（原标题：Loewe SS26 开启新時代，向悠久傳承致敬） 在这场双人首秀中，McCollough 和 Hernandez 延续了 Anderson 在 Loewe 期间所建立的美学脉络，俏皮 的剪影和超现实气息成为系列的主要特点。两人不仅对剪裁与皮革工艺有着精细的掌控，还通过大胆的 色彩和设计向 Loewe 的西班牙根源致敬。系列中，明媚的地中海色调和沙滩取向的造型展现出强烈的 热情与活力。 美国设计师 Jack McCollough 与 Lazaro Hernandez 正式接替 Jonathan Anderson，成为 Loewe 新一任创意 总监，并在 2026 春夏巴黎时装周上，发布二人首个女装系列。这对曾在 Proenza Schouler 共同打造的 设计师组合，肩负着接管一家拥有近两百年历史的欧洲时装屋的重大责任。尽管 Anderson 的创作风格 在时尚界广受赞誉，并持续影响了品牌十多年，但两位设计师的首秀却展现出他们独特的魅力与创新。 ...

BIZZARRI EXIT: Marco Bizzarri has exited his role as chairman of Elisabetta Franchi, WWD has learned. Asked to comment, the Italian fashion company confirmed the exit and that the namesake designer was succeeding Bizzarri in that role. More from WWD Responding to a WWD query, Bizzarri said he had “disinvested from the company back in July and that he resigned from his position earlier this month, communicating his decision to the board and all shareholders.” Indeed, while attending the Marco Rambaldi a ...

Gucci kicked off Milan Fashion Week on Tuesday by breaking the mold: In a short dramatic film, Demi Moore, Edward Norton and other actors wore designs by new creative director Demna as French parent c... ...

Core Insights - The 77th Primetime Emmy Awards highlighted a significant shift in menswear, showcasing a trend where men are embracing bolder and more personalized fashion choices on the red carpet [2][9] Group 1: Notable Winners and Styles - Tramell Tillman made history as the first Black man to win the Emmy for Outstanding Supporting Actor in a Drama Series, wearing an all-white double-breasted tuxedo by Dolce & Gabbana, which balanced contemporary style with classical tailoring [4] - Pedro Pascal's modern double-breasted Celine look featured slimmer trousers and long cuffs, reflecting a playful and risk-taking approach to menswear [5] - Alan Cumming's outfit from Tanner Fletcher included elements like a pussybow, demonstrating a genderless approach to fashion that expands the definition of menswear [6] - Colman Domingo's bold look at the Emmys included flared trousers and an embellished jacket, showcasing his ability to wear striking styles without being overwhelmed by them [7] - Noah Wyle's classic navy tuxedo, styled by Figs, was designed for comfort akin to scrubs, merging practicality with elegance for his first Emmy win [8] Group 2: Trends in Menswear - The 2025 Emmys illustrated that men are increasingly willing to take fashion risks, moving away from predictable styles to embrace daring cuts and playful details [9]

Core Insights - The color trends for the Spring/Summer 2026 New York Fashion Week focus on personalized expression and combating homogenization through bold color contrasts and innovative combinations, showcasing the myriad aspects of human nature [1] Color Trends Summary - **Acacia**: A yellow infused with green, bringing a bright vitality for the spring and summer season [3] - **Marina**: A tranquil sea blue, resembling a safe harbor for peace and comfort [3] - **Muskmelon**: A sweet and fragrant orange, radiating vibrant life [4] - **Alexandrite**: A calm yet luxurious teal, rich in color and deep in emotion [5] - **Lava Falls**: A passionate red that ignites primal instincts, characterized by its intense and dramatic hue [6] - **Dusty Rose**: A soft, hazy pink that exudes a romantic and enchanting aura [7] - **Tea Rose**: A rose color with red undertones, its elegant hue invites a tactile experience reminiscent of velvet [8] - **Amaranth**: A purple filled with urban flair, emanating a mysterious vibe and spiritual resonance [9] - **Burnt Sienna**: A reddish-brown that inspires a renewed exploration of nature's vitality [10] - **Burnished Lilac**: A lavender shade with a smoky quality, exuding a fragrant vintage charm [12]

Core Viewpoint - The Copenhagen Fashion Week is expanding its scope by incorporating talents from other Nordic countries, marking a significant shift as it approaches its 20th anniversary. This year's event featured 45 brands, including both established and emerging designers, highlighting the need for innovation in a rapidly changing fashion market [1][10]. Group 1: Event Highlights - The 2026 Copenhagen Fashion Week saw participation from 45 notable brands and emerging designers, including Cecilie Bahnsen and Rotate, as well as the return of designer Anne Sofie Madsen after eight years [1][3]. - The event emphasized the importance of innovation and diverse design approaches, as brands sought to differentiate themselves in a saturated market [1][4]. Group 2: Designer Innovations - Anne Sofie Madsen's return showcased a blend of fashion and art, with her new collection featuring unique design elements that challenge traditional fashion norms, such as transforming a motorcycle jacket into a dress [4][6]. - Rotate, founded by Jeanette Madsen and Thora Valdimarsdottir, focused on a modern take on 1970s bohemian styles, emphasizing practicality and user needs in their designs [8][9]. Group 3: Market Dynamics - The fashion industry is recovering, with consumers favoring classic designs with slight innovations over overly complex styles, indicating a shift in market preferences [9]. - Brands like Rotate are strategically targeting specific regional markets, such as Germany and the Middle East, to enhance their growth potential while maintaining clear pricing strategies [9][12]. Group 4: Challenges and Opportunities - Copenhagen faces challenges in retaining talent and brands as many successful designers move to larger fashion capitals like Paris for broader exposure and resources [11][12]. - The Copenhagen Fashion Week's CEO emphasized collaboration over competition with established fashion weeks, aiming to support local brands while acknowledging the need for a more robust local ecosystem to sustain growth [13].

Core Insights - Phoebe Philo is aggressively expanding into the Chinese market, signing with five retailers including luxury stores and new entrants, marking her first venture into China [1] - The brand targets urban women with independent aesthetics and purchasing power, despite high price points for items such as handbags averaging 40,000-50,000 RMB and jackets priced at 200,000 RMB [1] - Philo's design philosophy emphasizes quality and craftsmanship, positioning clothing as an investment rather than a mere purchase [1][2] Brand Background - Phoebe Philo, previously the creative director at Celine and Chloé, is recognized as a pioneer of minimalism in women's fashion, influencing many contemporary designers [2][5] - Her loyal fanbase, known as "Philophiles," remains devoted to her work from her Celine era, with dedicated social media accounts celebrating that period [5][6] Design Philosophy - Philo's designs are characterized by a minimalist approach, stripping away unnecessary elements while maintaining a luxurious feel, which has garnered critical acclaim [6][7] - The brand's recent collections have seen a mix of familiar styles with new, more absurd elements, reflecting a shift in Philo's design approach [14] Market Strategy - Phoebe Philo is moving towards a more commercial model, opening retail spaces in major cities and collaborating with emerging retail platforms to reach younger consumers [10][11] - The brand's first independent store is set to open in London's Mayfair, with plans for a fashion show and improved customer engagement through social media [11][13] Challenges and Adaptations - Despite initial success, the brand faces challenges such as high prices, inconsistent sizing, and customer dissatisfaction regarding material quality compared to her previous work at Celine [11][13] - Philo is adapting by expanding product ranges and improving return policies, while still maintaining a focus on her design ethos [13] Conclusion - Phoebe Philo's brand is evolving into a more typical luxury label, balancing her minimalist roots with the demands of the modern fashion market, including the introduction of her name on merchandise [15]

Core Insights - Phoebe Philo is aggressively expanding into the Chinese market, signing five retail partnerships, marking her first entry into China and a significant expansion strategy [1] - The brand targets urban women with independent aesthetics and purchasing power, despite high price points for items such as handbags averaging 40,000-50,000 RMB and jackets priced at 200,000 RMB [1] - Philo's design philosophy emphasizes quality and craftsmanship, viewing clothing as an investment, with a non-seasonal approach to collections [1][5] Brand Background - Phoebe Philo, previously the creative director at Celine and Chloé, is recognized as a pioneer of minimalism in women's fashion, influencing many contemporary designers [2][4] - Her loyal fanbase, known as "Philophiles," remains devoted to her work from her Celine era, with dedicated social media accounts celebrating that period [4] Design Philosophy - Philo's designs are characterized by a minimalist aesthetic, often described as intuitive and straightforward, reflecting her personal experiences and observations [5][6] - The brand's products are often seen as essential items despite lacking prominent logos, creating a sense of exclusivity and desirability [7] Market Strategy - Since last year, Phoebe Philo has been moving towards a more commercial approach, opening retail locations in major cities and collaborating with emerging retail platforms [8] - The brand plans to launch its first independent store in London's Mayfair and is focusing on social media engagement to reach a broader audience [8][12] Product Reception - The initial launch of 150 new items sold out within 24 hours, indicating strong demand, although some customers expressed disappointment regarding quality compared to previous Celine products [6][9] - Challenges include high prices, sizing issues, and limited after-sales service, which may affect customer satisfaction [9][11] Future Developments - The brand is working on improving return policies and expanding its product range to include more affordable options, while maintaining its high-end image [12] - Upcoming collections are expected to feature subtle changes in design, blending various styles and forms, reflecting a shift in Philo's creative direction [13][14]

Core Concept - The 2025 Spring/Summer collection of COLOR GOOSE emphasizes the theme of "rules as pathways, freedom as direction," aiming to transform urban spaces into creative playgrounds through innovative design and material experimentation [1]. Group 1: Dual Identity of Urban Wanderers - The collection captures the modern individual's contradictory state of being both a tamer of the city and a rebel against rules, expressed through design language [3]. - The evolution of workwear genes is showcased with the use of 3D cutting techniques to reconstruct traditional workwear, enhancing functionality and aesthetics [5]. - The collection features designs that release a sense of freedom, such as ultra-long pants and eco-friendly materials, pushing the boundaries of conventional fashion [7]. Group 2: In-Depth Analysis of Key Items - The "弯刀裤" (curved knife pants) visually elongate the legs by 10% through unique cutting techniques validated by 3D modeling [11]. - The washing process combines spray and enzyme techniques to create a vintage look, merging street style with retro aesthetics [13]. - The "伪两件格纹衬衫" (pseudo two-piece plaid shirt) utilizes a clever layering technique to create depth and visual interest [21]. Group 3: Craft Revolution - Sustainability and Street Style - The collection employs eco-friendly technologies, enhancing fabric breathability by 30% through dual processing of 100% Xinjiang long-staple cotton [30]. - Innovative use of recycled materials, such as composite paper fabric, challenges traditional denim perceptions [32]. - The intricate detailing in craftsmanship, including high-density embroidery and laser distressing, creates unique wear patterns for each piece [34]. Group 4: Styling Formulas for Various Scenarios - The collection offers styling formulas that blend high street fashion with casual elements, showcasing key items like the curved knife pants and short cardigans [38]. - A retro functional look is achieved through the combination of paper composite jeans and plaid shirts, emphasizing narrative elements in the design [40]. - Gender-neutral options are highlighted with tailored shirts and graphic tees, promoting versatility in everyday wear [42]. Conclusion - The COLOR GOOSE 2025 Spring/Summer collection represents a carefully curated urban escape plan, facilitating a transformation from "rule followers" to "urban dreamers" through innovative fashion [44].