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Dior没垮,但设计师要被榨干了
36氪· 2025-08-18 13:35
Core Viewpoint - The fashion industry is experiencing a "burnout" era, where designers are increasingly pressured to produce a high volume of creative work under tight deadlines, transforming from creators into mere content producers [5][19][32]. Group 1: Jonathan Anderson's Appointment - Jonathan Anderson has been appointed as the creative director for all lines of Dior, marking a historic moment as he is the first to hold such comprehensive creative control since the brand's founder [7][9]. - Anderson faces an unprecedented challenge of producing at least 18 distinct fashion collections annually, which includes 10 complete collections for Dior and additional lines for his personal brand and collaborations [9][10]. Group 2: Industry Pressure and Workload - The workload for designers has intensified, with Anderson's role likened to that of a "super worker," as he must deliver a complete collection approximately every three weeks [9][10]. - The fashion industry has shifted towards a model where creativity is quantified and assessed as a KPI, leading to a relentless cycle of production and innovation [38]. Group 3: Historical Context of Designer Burnout - The experiences of other renowned designers, such as Raf Simons and Alexander McQueen, illustrate that the pressure to produce under high-stakes conditions is not unique to Anderson but a broader trend in the industry [20][25][31]. - Designers like Raf Simons have left high-profile positions due to the overwhelming demands of constant production, highlighting the unsustainable nature of the current fashion system [21][24]. Group 4: Impact of Social Media - The rise of social media has transformed designers into "super IPs," where their personal lives and public personas are commodified, further intensifying the pressure to maintain a constant presence and generate buzz [38][41]. - The expectation for designers to continuously engage with audiences online has led to a depletion of their creative energy, raising questions about the sustainability of this model [38][41]. Group 5: Future of Fashion - There is a growing concern about whether the current fast-paced and consumption-driven model of fashion can continue to thrive, as engagement with luxury brands on social media has stagnated [41]. - The industry may need to reconsider its approach to creativity and production to allow for more sustainable practices that prioritize the well-being of designers and the authenticity of their work [41].