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波尔多法国人的人情世故,比中国人狠多了
Hu Xiu· 2025-10-24 07:33
Core Viewpoint - The Bordeaux wine industry is facing significant challenges due to the influence of new wealth from Asia, leading to a breakdown of traditional rating systems and practices, as exemplified by the Cheval Blanc winery's decision to withdraw from the local rating system [1][7][9]. Group 1: Bordeaux Wine Rating System - The Bordeaux wine rating system, established in 1855, originally did not include the Saint Émilion region, which later received its own rating system in 1955 [2][3]. - The rating system was intended to promote quality and competition among wineries, with evaluations occurring every ten years [2][3]. - The 2012 rating process was marred by allegations of conflicts of interest, particularly involving Hubert de Boüard of Angelus winery, who was accused of manipulating the system to benefit his own winery [4][5]. Group 2: Impact of New Wealth - The influx of wealth from countries like Japan, China, and India has led to inflated prices for Bordeaux wines, with some wines selling for as much as 800 euros per bottle, while lesser-rated wines struggle to sell [3]. - The competition for prestigious vineyards has driven prices to extreme levels, with some properties selling for up to 4 million euros per hectare [3]. Group 3: Current State of Bordeaux Wineries - Many Bordeaux wineries are now in a precarious financial situation, with some unable to meet production demands and resorting to excessive pesticide use to protect their crops [12][13]. - The environmental impact of intensive farming practices is raising concerns, as the soil quality in Bordeaux is deteriorating due to chemical accumulation [16]. - A few affluent wineries, like Cheval Blanc, are exploring sustainable practices, such as introducing animals to their vineyards to restore soil vitality [18].