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《百年旧痕》:穿衣的政治
Xin Lang Cai Jing· 2025-12-28 14:15
Core Viewpoint - The evolution of clothing in China over the past century reflects significant social and political changes, with specific styles indicating class distinctions and societal norms [5][6][7]. Group 1: Historical Changes in Clothing - The major shift in clothing styles began after 1911, moving away from the Manchu attire to more diverse forms of dress, particularly in men's clothing [5]. - Before 1911, men's clothing was largely uniform, with distinctions primarily based on rank rather than ethnicity, while women's clothing showed clear differences between Han and Manchu styles [5][6]. - The Republic of China era saw a rejection of traditional Manchu garments, leading to the adoption of long gowns and the removal of specific features like the horse-hoof sleeves [6]. Group 2: Introduction of New Styles - The introduction of the Zhongshan suit (also known as the Sun Yat-sen suit) marked a significant change in men's fashion, with its design evolving from a stand-collar to a lapel style in the early 1920s [7]. - Western-style suits began to gain popularity in China during the late Qing Dynasty, with the fashion evolving to match European styles by the 1920s, leading to a peak in the 1930s [8]. - Despite the rise of Western fashion, traditional long gowns remained prevalent, especially among certain social classes, indicating a blend of styles during this period [9]. Group 3: Cultural Significance of Clothing - Clothing in Chinese society is not merely functional but serves as a reflection of social values, etiquette, and cultural identity [5][6]. - The story of a young man who wore a long gown with a subtle design illustrates the importance of understated elegance and cultural expression in clothing choices [10][11]. - The emphasis on subtlety and craftsmanship in clothing design highlights a cultural preference for nuanced expression over ostentation [11].