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“时尚女魔头”卸任:社交媒体时代崩塌的权威
虎嗅APP· 2025-07-09 13:21
Core Viewpoint - The resignation of Anna Wintour as the editor-in-chief of American Vogue marks the end of an era in the fashion industry, highlighting the collapse of the traditional fashion authority in the digital age [5][7]. Group 1: Anna Wintour's Legacy - Anna Wintour has been a significant cultural symbol in the fashion industry for 37 years, representing the old guard of fashion authority [5][9]. - Under her leadership, Vogue became a powerful platform for discovering and promoting talent, influencing public perception of fashion [11][12]. - Despite her departure, Wintour remains a key figure as the Chief Content Officer of Condé Nast and Global Editorial Director of Vogue, still influencing the overall strategy [9]. Group 2: Financial Performance of Condé Nast - Condé Nast struggled financially before 2021, with total revenue around $2 billion in that year, and an estimated $1.2 billion attributed to Vogue [9]. - The company has faced challenges in meeting revenue targets in subsequent years, largely due to a decline in print advertising revenue over the past two decades [9]. Group 3: The Shift in Fashion Authority - The rise of social media has diminished the power of traditional fashion editors, as consumers now rely on influencers and peers for fashion guidance [21][25]. - The authority of fashion magazines has been questioned, with criticisms regarding systemic issues within the industry, including the treatment of models and the elitism of fashion events [23][24]. - The pandemic significantly impacted luxury advertising, leading to cost-cutting measures and layoffs within major publishing groups, further eroding the myth of the fashion editor's authority [25][26]. Group 4: Future of Fashion Media - Condé Nast has attempted to adapt by prioritizing mobile content and investing in events like Vogue World, but the financial success has come from less fashion-centric publications like The New Yorker [28]. - The future viability of fashion magazines may depend on their ability to leverage internet communities rather than traditional fashion content, as exemplified by the success of Reddit [28].
“时尚女魔头”卸任:社交媒体时代崩塌的权威
Hu Xiu· 2025-07-09 02:39
Core Viewpoint - The traditional fashion empire, represented by figures like Anna Wintour, is collapsing due to the rise of social media and changing consumer behaviors, leading to a reevaluation of who defines fashion today [2][17][18]. Group 1: Anna Wintour and Vogue's Influence - Anna Wintour has been a significant cultural symbol in the fashion industry, representing the traditional fashion authority [2][4]. - Under her leadership, Vogue has evolved, with the U.S. version being the most influential among its 28 international editions [3][5]. - Despite stepping down as editor-in-chief, Wintour remains a key figure in shaping Vogue's global strategy [4]. Group 2: Financial Performance of Condé Nast - Condé Nast faced financial struggles before 2021, with total revenue around $2 billion and Vogue contributing approximately $1.2 billion in revenue that year [5]. - The company has struggled to meet revenue targets in subsequent years, largely due to a decline in print advertising revenue [7][18]. Group 3: Changes in Fashion Consumption - The emergence of social media has diminished the authority of traditional fashion editors, as consumers now rely on influencers and peers for fashion insights [18][24]. - The pandemic significantly impacted luxury advertising, leading to cost-cutting measures within major publishing groups [24][27]. Group 4: Shift in Fashion Magazine Dynamics - Fashion magazines are increasingly seen as out of touch, struggling to communicate effectively with audiences accustomed to direct engagement with brands and influencers [19][25]. - The rise of a "fan economy" has shifted the focus from fashion itself to celebrity culture, affecting how magazines operate and engage with their audience [26][28]. Group 5: Future of Fashion Publications - Condé Nast is attempting to adapt by prioritizing mobile content and investing in events like Vogue World, but the financial success of its publications may rely more on non-fashion-related ventures [29][33]. - The success of platforms like Reddit, which has seen significant growth and profitability, highlights a potential shift in how fashion and culture are consumed and monetized [32][33].