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2025年VOGUE的时尚商业叙事——市场下沉
Sou Hu Cai Jing· 2025-12-27 09:48
首先,子刊是深化品牌影响力的"特种部队"。在一个注意力极度分散的时代,大而全的综合性月刊影响 力边界已然清晰。且在经济下行的时候,资源会越来越集中在头部品牌。通过切入健康生活、男性风 尚、影视、艺术等垂直赛道,《Vogue》得以将自身权威的时尚滤镜,覆盖至更具体的生活场景与消费 人群。这不仅是内容的细分,更是品牌心智的精准占领,在细分领域建立起难以替代的话语权。 2025年6月的某个早上,康泰纳仕中国区新任总经理Sherry Lang步入上海办公室,桌上摊开的不仅是业 务报表、各部门人员情况,更是一份沉重的责任书:核心KPI是提振中国区商业表现。此刻的康泰纳仕 中国,早已不复往日"时尚媒体帝国"的从容。2024年痛失《智族GQ》(该刊后更名为《国传观察》) 业务,如同一场截肢手术,使其在男性高端市场与重要营收来源上瞬间"瘸腿"。而《Vogue服饰与美 容》新任主编Rocco Liu及其团队的到来,在为这本旗舰刊物注入新血的同时,也带来了内容方向与团 队磨合的诸多不确定性。宏观上,经济增速放缓,品牌预算愈发审慎,投放逻辑从单纯的品牌曝光,急 剧转向追求可量化的ROI,对艺人、名人的带货效应寄予厚望。 内忧外患交 ...
新任命!《Vogue》美国版史上首位编辑内容主管就位
Core Insights - Condé Nast appointed Chloe Malle as the first Head of Editorial Content for the U.S. edition of Vogue, emphasizing cross-platform content production and operations, moving beyond traditional editorial roles [1][3] - Chloe Malle has been with Vogue since 2011, previously serving in various editorial roles, and is recognized as a key figure in merging the brand's traditional values with modern digital innovation [1][2] - The new title of Head of Editorial Content signifies a deeper reform in content management, allowing for integrated authority across platforms and departments, which is a departure from the traditional Editor-in-Chief role [3] Company Background - Condé Nast has unified its global editorial system under Anna Wintour's leadership since 2020, integrating brands like Vogue, GQ, and Vanity Fair to promote cross-market collaboration and content consistency [3] - The appointment of Chloe Malle reflects a broader trend within Condé Nast to adapt to the evolving media landscape, with a focus on commercial and platform integration [3] Industry Context - Chloe Malle's background as a "star kid" has sparked discussions about nepotism within elite circles, highlighting the intersection of personal connections and professional advancement in the fashion media industry [2] - The title of Head of Editorial Content is now used for Vogue leaders in various countries, indicating a shift towards a more commercialized and integrated media approach, with the exception of the China region where the title emphasizes traditional editorial leadership [3][5]
“时尚女魔头”卸任:社交媒体时代崩塌的权威
虎嗅APP· 2025-07-09 13:21
Core Viewpoint - The resignation of Anna Wintour as the editor-in-chief of American Vogue marks the end of an era in the fashion industry, highlighting the collapse of the traditional fashion authority in the digital age [5][7]. Group 1: Anna Wintour's Legacy - Anna Wintour has been a significant cultural symbol in the fashion industry for 37 years, representing the old guard of fashion authority [5][9]. - Under her leadership, Vogue became a powerful platform for discovering and promoting talent, influencing public perception of fashion [11][12]. - Despite her departure, Wintour remains a key figure as the Chief Content Officer of Condé Nast and Global Editorial Director of Vogue, still influencing the overall strategy [9]. Group 2: Financial Performance of Condé Nast - Condé Nast struggled financially before 2021, with total revenue around $2 billion in that year, and an estimated $1.2 billion attributed to Vogue [9]. - The company has faced challenges in meeting revenue targets in subsequent years, largely due to a decline in print advertising revenue over the past two decades [9]. Group 3: The Shift in Fashion Authority - The rise of social media has diminished the power of traditional fashion editors, as consumers now rely on influencers and peers for fashion guidance [21][25]. - The authority of fashion magazines has been questioned, with criticisms regarding systemic issues within the industry, including the treatment of models and the elitism of fashion events [23][24]. - The pandemic significantly impacted luxury advertising, leading to cost-cutting measures and layoffs within major publishing groups, further eroding the myth of the fashion editor's authority [25][26]. Group 4: Future of Fashion Media - Condé Nast has attempted to adapt by prioritizing mobile content and investing in events like Vogue World, but the financial success has come from less fashion-centric publications like The New Yorker [28]. - The future viability of fashion magazines may depend on their ability to leverage internet communities rather than traditional fashion content, as exemplified by the success of Reddit [28].
“时尚女魔头”卸任:社交媒体时代崩塌的权威
Hu Xiu· 2025-07-09 02:39
Core Viewpoint - The traditional fashion empire, represented by figures like Anna Wintour, is collapsing due to the rise of social media and changing consumer behaviors, leading to a reevaluation of who defines fashion today [2][17][18]. Group 1: Anna Wintour and Vogue's Influence - Anna Wintour has been a significant cultural symbol in the fashion industry, representing the traditional fashion authority [2][4]. - Under her leadership, Vogue has evolved, with the U.S. version being the most influential among its 28 international editions [3][5]. - Despite stepping down as editor-in-chief, Wintour remains a key figure in shaping Vogue's global strategy [4]. Group 2: Financial Performance of Condé Nast - Condé Nast faced financial struggles before 2021, with total revenue around $2 billion and Vogue contributing approximately $1.2 billion in revenue that year [5]. - The company has struggled to meet revenue targets in subsequent years, largely due to a decline in print advertising revenue [7][18]. Group 3: Changes in Fashion Consumption - The emergence of social media has diminished the authority of traditional fashion editors, as consumers now rely on influencers and peers for fashion insights [18][24]. - The pandemic significantly impacted luxury advertising, leading to cost-cutting measures within major publishing groups [24][27]. Group 4: Shift in Fashion Magazine Dynamics - Fashion magazines are increasingly seen as out of touch, struggling to communicate effectively with audiences accustomed to direct engagement with brands and influencers [19][25]. - The rise of a "fan economy" has shifted the focus from fashion itself to celebrity culture, affecting how magazines operate and engage with their audience [26][28]. Group 5: Future of Fashion Publications - Condé Nast is attempting to adapt by prioritizing mobile content and investing in events like Vogue World, but the financial success of its publications may rely more on non-fashion-related ventures [29][33]. - The success of platforms like Reddit, which has seen significant growth and profitability, highlights a potential shift in how fashion and culture are consumed and monetized [32][33].