探索发现新经济。 作者：初夏，题图来自：AI生成 当海底捞爆改"下海捞"，帅哥DJ打碟、腹肌开啤酒成标配。当杭州国风烧鸟酒馆里，身着古风服饰 的女舞者与顾客亲密互动，尺度之大让全网瞠目。如今的人们猛然发现，"礼崩乐坏"不再是对社会秩 序混乱、道德风尚败坏的严厉指责，而是社交平台上的热门网络梗，并且为实体餐饮行业带来梦寐以 求的客流。 于是，种种看似荒诞的"餐饮＋表演"模式，正在全国范围内被快速复制。湊湊火锅引入驻唱歌手，香 飘飘门店推出"男团服务生"现场制茶，鸿姐老火锅举办型男"一日店长"活动，SIZEN咖啡更是以"男 模级服务员"作为卖点…… 当价格战难以为继，当线上流量成本持续攀升，餐饮老板们似乎不约而同地意识到：食物本身已经不 够吸引年轻人了，必须加上表演、场景、互动，甚至是游走于道德与法律边缘的"擦边"元素，才能在 社交媒体时代杀出一条生路，并由此掀起一场"擦边经济"的狂欢。 以下文章来源于惊蛰研究所 ，作者惊蛰研究所消费组 惊蛰研究所 . 当"秀色可餐"具象化 "迷幻的灯光、大方秀身材的MC、嗨到爆的DJ表演，这些场景几乎颠覆了我对海底捞以往'服务至 上'的认知，这次真的要去海底捞一趟了。"在抖音刷 ...

Core Viewpoint - The article discusses the rise of "borderline economy" in the restaurant industry, where dining experiences are increasingly combined with entertainment elements to attract younger consumers, reflecting a shift in consumer preferences towards social and interactive dining experiences [5][10]. Summary by Sections Emergence of "Borderline Economy" - The restaurant industry is witnessing a trend where dining is paired with performances, as seen in establishments like Haidilao, which has introduced night-themed dining experiences featuring DJs and interactive performances to draw in customers [5][7]. - This shift is a response to the challenges of attracting young consumers, as traditional food offerings alone are no longer sufficient [5][9]. Consumer Experience and Engagement - Young consumers, particularly those born in the 1990s and 2000s, are seeking not just food but a comprehensive experience that includes social interaction and entertainment [9][10]. - The popularity of Haidilao's night-themed restaurants has led to significant social media engagement, with over 10 million views on Xiaohongshu and 9 million on Douyin [7]. Historical Context and Evolution - The combination of dining and entertainment is not new, with historical precedents in ancient marketplaces and tea houses, but current implementations are more aggressive and visually oriented [8]. - The article highlights that while entertainment can enhance the dining experience, it cannot replace the fundamental quality of food [12][19]. Risks and Challenges - The article points out that while the "borderline" approach may generate short-term interest, it poses risks for long-term sustainability, as seen in the decline of restaurants like Staneemeehoi and Hooters, which relied heavily on provocative marketing strategies [12][13]. - Regulatory scrutiny is increasing, with establishments facing penalties for inappropriate entertainment content, indicating a potential backlash against overly provocative dining experiences [12][14]. Alternative Approaches - A new trend of culturally rich performances is emerging, where dining experiences incorporate local traditions and culinary practices, providing a more authentic and sustainable model for attracting customers [17][19]. - The article emphasizes that successful "performance dining" should enhance rather than overshadow the quality of food, ensuring that the core dining experience remains appealing [20].

Core Insights - The article discusses the emerging trend of combining dining with entertainment in the restaurant industry, particularly focusing on the "borderline economy" where restaurants incorporate performances to attract customers [1][6][8] - The shift in consumer preferences, especially among younger generations, emphasizes the need for a comprehensive experience that includes social interaction and entertainment, rather than just food [4][12] Industry Trends - The integration of performance elements in dining experiences is rapidly being adopted across various restaurant brands, such as Hai Di Lao and others, to enhance customer engagement and drive foot traffic [1][2][3] - Hai Di Lao has launched a "night snack" theme store that has gained significant attention, with over 10 million views on Xiaohongshu and 9 million on Douyin, leading to the opening of nearly 30 such stores in major cities [2][3] Financial Performance - The restaurant industry is facing significant financial pressures, with several well-known brands reporting losses in 2024, including Nayuki's Tea with a net loss of 919 million yuan and Xiaobing Xiaobing with a revenue of 4.755 billion yuan and a total loss of 401 million yuan [3][6] Consumer Behavior - The "experience generation" of consumers, particularly those born in the 1990s and 2000s, seeks not only food but also social and entertainment experiences, driving restaurants to innovate beyond traditional offerings [4][5] - The perception of value has shifted, with consumers willing to pay for multi-faceted experiences that combine dining with entertainment, as seen in the popularity of Hai Di Lao's new offerings [5][12] Risks and Challenges - The reliance on "borderline" entertainment strategies poses risks, as evidenced by the closure of previously successful establishments like Staneemeehoi in Bangkok and Hooters in the U.S., highlighting the potential pitfalls of such marketing approaches [6][7] - Regulatory scrutiny is increasing, with incidents of restaurants being penalized for inappropriate performances, indicating that the sustainability of the "borderline economy" is uncertain [7][8] Future Directions - A new trend of "positive performance" is emerging, where restaurants incorporate culturally rich and meaningful entertainment that enhances the dining experience without compromising food quality [9][10] - Successful models are focusing on integrating local culture and culinary traditions into performances, creating a more authentic and engaging dining experience [10][12]