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“贵妇”们为什么不买赫莲娜和海蓝之谜了?
虎嗅APP· 2025-06-04 14:18
Core Viewpoint - The luxury skincare brands Helena and La Mer are facing significant challenges in reputation and sales during the 618 shopping festival, highlighting a structural crisis in the high-end beauty market in China [3][4][22]. Group 1: Sales Performance and Market Trends - Helena and La Mer ranked high in sales during the 618 festival, with Helena at TOP1 and La Mer at TOP4 on Douyin, and ranked 8th and 6th respectively on Tmall [3]. - Despite strong sales, both brands are experiencing a decline in reputation and sales, with Helena's high-end cosmetics division showing the lowest growth rate in L'Oréal's financial report for 2024 [4]. - La Mer's parent company, Estée Lauder, reported a 7% and 12% year-on-year revenue decline in Q3 and Q4 of 2024, attributing it to decreased sales of La Mer and Estée Lauder [4]. Group 2: Consumer Behavior Changes - High-income consumers are increasingly turning to medical beauty treatments, while lower-income consumers seek affordable alternatives, leading to a perception of ultra-high-end beauty products as "intelligence tax" [5][6]. - Brands are strategically abandoning entry-level consumers and focusing on high-value and mid-tier consumers, often resulting in price increases [9]. - The shift in consumer loyalty is evident, with many former loyal customers of high-end brands now exploring more effective and targeted products from medical beauty brands [12]. Group 3: Pricing and Quality Issues - The pricing structure of luxury brands has become chaotic, with significant discounts available through duty-free channels, undermining the premium image of brands like La Mer and Helena [14][15]. - There are reports of quality control issues, with consumers expressing dissatisfaction over product quality and packaging, which has led to a decline in brand loyalty [17]. - The management of offline sales channels has been criticized for allowing practices like private group buying, which further complicates the pricing and service quality [15][16]. Group 4: Strategic Challenges - The strategic positioning of Helena and La Mer in the Chinese market is becoming marginalized, with limited decision-making power for local management affecting product innovation and service quality [19][20]. - Estée Lauder's focus has shifted towards more profitable segments, leaving Helena and La Mer at a disadvantage in terms of resource allocation and market attention [21]. - The overall trend indicates a potential end to the era of high-priced foreign luxury brands relying on storytelling for premium pricing, as consumers increasingly demand efficacy and value [22].