以下文章来源于潮生TIDE ，作者杨柳 潮生TIDE . 36氪旗下生活方式内容品牌。潮来潮去，生活不息。 文 ｜ 杨柳 设计 ｜ 曲枚 来源｜ 潮生TIDE（ID：chaoshengTIDE） 图片来源 ｜ 品牌官方 香奈儿走出舒适区。 第一套look就"很不香奈儿"， 一件以男士西装为灵感改造的女士短款上衣，下身搭配阔腿西装裤，整体干练简洁， 和人们熟悉的"贵气小香风"套装大相径 庭。 小香风标志性的斜纹软呢套装，则在20几个look之后才出现，部分套装还有意做了"毛边处理"。 相比于过去的"精致名媛"，这次的风格更接近随性白领。 相应的，经典2.55包袋被设计成有点揉皱、变型的状态，随意拎在手上。 整个秀场，香奈儿标志性的斜纹软呢、黑白配色、山茶花、麦穗、珍珠等元素仍在，但都做了相对温和克制的演绎，双C标志更是有意弱化。 有评论称，这 是一场去符号化的实验。 这是新任设计师的有意为之。年仅41岁的Matthieu Blazy去年6月被正式任命为香奈儿时装业务的艺术总监。在这之前，被称为"老佛爷"的Karl Lagerfeld已经 在这个位置上做了36年，他的继任者Virginie Viard也做了5年。 ...

特朗普关税对美国国内哪类商品的价格产生了最为猛烈的冲击？答案或许是：皮革制品…… 大量美国制造商和零售商在关税实施前的库存已经售罄，而补货成本却高得惊人。业内专家表示，目前 上架的产品大多采用"更昂贵"的皮革制成，经过"更昂贵"的海外加工，并且运费也比去年的商品"更 高"。 耶鲁大学预算实验室11月的一项预估显示，受通货膨胀、供应链瓶颈和高额关税影响(尤其是针对中 国、越南、意大利和印度的关税)，皮革制品价格至少在未来一到两年内都将较关税前上涨近22%，位 居各涨价商品的首位。 该实验室政策分析副主任John Ricco指出，"皮革行业遭受重创有两大原因——首先，部分最高关税税 率针对的是美国主要进口皮革的国家。其次，美国从这些贸易伙伴国进口的皮革及更广泛的服装相关产 品，远多于自主生产。" 成本压力已显现于Tapestry集团等行业巨头身上——该集团旗下拥有Coach和Kate Spade等知名品牌。该 公司高管8月向投资者透露，关税相关支出可能高达1.6亿美元，并警告未来将面临"超出预期的利润下 行压力"。 低成本供应渠道将不复存在？ 随着关税生效，Twisted X和许多其他皮革公司确实曾考虑扩展更多供 ...

Core Insights - Luxury brands that significantly raised prices during periods of high consumer spending are now facing severe sales declines [1][4] - LVMH's Christian Dior and Chanel reported substantial sales drops, with Dior's fashion and leather goods sales down 5% and Chanel's sales down 4% in 2024 [1][2] - In contrast, Hermès and Richemont continue to experience strong growth, with both companies reporting a 7% increase in sales in the first quarter of this year [1] Price Increase Analysis - During the pandemic, luxury brands raised prices significantly, with an average increase of 36% from 2020 to 2023, double the U.S. inflation rate [2] - Chanel and Dior's price hikes were particularly aggressive, at 59% and 51% respectively, while Hermès only increased prices by 20% [2] - Chanel's Classic Flap handbag exemplifies this trend, rising from $5,800 in 2019 to $10,800 today [2] Market Share Dynamics - Price is not the sole factor in the performance decline of brands like Chanel and Dior; Chanel is also undergoing a creative transition with a new designer [3] - Chanel has halted price increases in the U.S. market since March 2024, a departure from its usual practice of biannual price hikes [3] - Luxury brands face challenges in lowering prices without damaging their brand image, as they invest heavily in advertising to justify high prices [3] Long-term Implications - Brands that maintained moderate pricing during the pandemic, like Hermès and Richemont, may be better positioned to avoid potential tariff impacts and protect profit margins [3] - Hermès has successfully passed on tariff costs to U.S. consumers, while Richemont's strong demand allows for potential price increases without immediate hikes [3]