以下文章来源于有数DataVision ，作者黄茜琳 有数DataVision . 数据表象与商业真相 来源丨 有数 DataVision（ID： ycsypl ） 作者丨 黄茜琳 编辑丨 李墨天 图源丨Midjourney 2016年，日本农林水产省(MAFF)颁布了《海外日本料理烹饪技能认证指南》，主要目的是撵走华 人。 不少华人日料店打着东京、樱花、北海道的名号，造出了宫保鸡丁寿司、郫县豆瓣三文鱼等新式名 菜，不仅颠覆了国际友人对正宗日料的理解，也夺走了大量本国人的生意，忍无可忍的日本人最终搬 出了这项"厨师认证"。 这门考试分金、银、铜三个等级，金牌厨师要求最高，烹饪技法是其次，重在学习礼仪举止、传播饮 食文化，铜牌门槛最低，掌握各种设备的使用方法，做到预防食物中毒就行。 其 本意是让华人 厨师知难而退，但直到去年9月，全球金牌厨师只有23个 [6] ，大部分是老外。 这项考试没能约束住哪怕一个中国人 日本人对华人经年累月的穷追猛打中，他们或许忽视了一个问题：一拨人抢走另一波人的饭碗，尚且 可以归功于运气，但如果举国的饭碗都不保，问题一定出在自己身上。 日料被中国人做大做强，这锅还得日本背。 大自然的 ...

Core Viewpoint - The article discusses how Chinese chefs have significantly influenced the Japanese cuisine market, leading to a transformation in the perception and consumption of Japanese food globally, while Japan struggles to maintain its culinary heritage and market share [5][10]. Group 1: Japanese Culinary Certification and Market Dynamics - In 2016, Japan's Ministry of Agriculture, Forestry and Fisheries introduced a certification to deter Chinese chefs, but it failed to restrict their presence in the market [5][6]. - The certification has only produced 23 gold-certified chefs globally, with most being non-Japanese [6]. - The Japanese culinary industry is facing challenges as it loses market share to Chinese restaurants that innovate traditional dishes [10]. Group 2: Salmon Supply Chain and Globalization - Norway's salmon production has dramatically increased from 2 tons in 1980 to 45,000 tons by 2000, largely due to successful marketing strategies aimed at Japanese consumers [14]. - The reliance on imported ingredients is evident, with Japan's domestic salmon production being minimal compared to imports from Norway [17][21]. - By 2024, 70% of eel supply in Japan is expected to come from China, highlighting the shift in sourcing seafood [20]. Group 3: Economic Aspects of Japanese Cuisine - Japanese restaurants in New York reportedly have a net profit margin of 12% to 15%, which is higher than that of Chinese restaurants [29]. - The article notes that Japanese cuisine is one of the few profitable sectors in the global restaurant industry, with high consumer spending [30]. - The simplicity of Japanese cooking techniques allows for lower operational costs, but high raw material costs can limit profit margins [33]. Group 4: Cultural and Marketing Strategies - Japanese restaurants leverage cultural narratives and aesthetics to enhance the perceived value of their dishes, creating a significant premium on pricing [40][41]. - The article emphasizes the importance of branding and presentation in Japanese cuisine, which allows for higher profit margins despite the reliance on imported ingredients [37][40]. - In contrast, Chinese restaurants are adopting standardized operations to increase efficiency and profitability, moving away from traditional culinary practices [44][45]. Group 5: Challenges and Adaptations - Instances of food fraud in Japan, such as mislabeling imported products as local, indicate the pressures faced by the industry to maintain authenticity while competing with cheaper imports [58][59]. - The article highlights the ongoing struggle within Japan to balance traditional culinary practices with the realities of global supply chains and market competition [55].

Core Viewpoint - The article discusses the evolution and current state of Japanese cuisine, particularly in relation to the influence of Chinese chefs and the sourcing of ingredients, highlighting the challenges faced by traditional Japanese culinary practices in a globalized market [4][6]. Group 1: Japanese Culinary Certification and Market Dynamics - The Japanese Ministry of Agriculture, Forestry and Fisheries (MAFF) introduced a certification system for Japanese cuisine to combat the rise of Chinese-run Japanese restaurants, which have created fusion dishes that deviate from traditional Japanese cuisine [4][5]. - As of last year, there were only 23 certified gold-level chefs globally, with most being non-Japanese, indicating a struggle for traditional Japanese chefs to maintain their market share [5][6]. Group 2: Ingredient Sourcing and Globalization - The article highlights that while Chinese sushi restaurants may not use Japanese-sourced salmon, Japanese restaurants often rely on Norwegian salmon, which has become a staple in Japan since the 1980s [8][9]. - Japan's domestic seafood production is limited, with significant reliance on imports for various seafood, including 70% of its eel supply coming from China by 2024 [13][16]. Group 3: Economic Viability of Japanese Cuisine - Japanese restaurants in New York reportedly have a net profit margin of 12% to 15%, making them more profitable than Chinese restaurants, which have a margin below 12% [20]. - A Chinese self-service Japanese restaurant chain that went public in Hong Kong in 2022 reported a net profit margin of 15.1%, comparable to peak levels of other successful dining chains [23]. Group 4: Cultural and Culinary Value - The article discusses how Japanese cuisine has shifted focus from raw materials and cooking techniques to cultural and experiential value, allowing for significant price premiums [26][27]. - The "artisan spirit" in Japanese cuisine emphasizes the process and presentation, which has created a unique market positioning despite the reliance on imported ingredients [24][29]. Group 5: Challenges and Adaptations - The article notes instances of food fraud in Japan, such as mislabeling imported produce as locally sourced, reflecting the pressures of maintaining authenticity in a competitive market [37][39]. - The rise of Chinese culinary standards and practices in Japanese cuisine has led to a transformation in how Japanese food is prepared and marketed, often prioritizing efficiency and scalability over traditional methods [29][30].

Core Viewpoint - The article discusses the evolution and current state of Japanese cuisine, particularly focusing on the influence of Chinese chefs and the sourcing of ingredients, highlighting the challenges faced by traditional Japanese culinary practices in the global market [5][8][10]. Group 1: Japanese Culinary Certification and Market Dynamics - In 2016, Japan's Ministry of Agriculture, Forestry and Fisheries introduced a certification for Japanese cuisine chefs aimed at regulating the influx of Chinese chefs, but it has not effectively limited their presence [5][8]. - The certification has three levels, with the highest requiring not only cooking skills but also cultural etiquette, yet only 23 gold-certified chefs exist globally, most of whom are not Chinese [5][6]. - The rise of Chinese-run Japanese restaurants has led to a significant shift in the perception and authenticity of Japanese cuisine, with many traditional dishes being adapted or reinterpreted [8][10]. Group 2: Ingredient Sourcing and Globalization - Norway's salmon export to Japan increased dramatically from 2 tons in 1980 to 45,000 tons by 2000, indicating a shift in Japanese dietary habits towards imported seafood [10][11]. - Japan relies heavily on imports for seafood, with 70% of its eel supply coming from China by 2024, and a significant portion of other seafood sourced from various countries [16][20]. - The article highlights the challenges Japan faces in maintaining its culinary identity while being dependent on foreign ingredients, leading to a potential crisis in its traditional food culture [20][21]. Group 3: Economic Aspects of Japanese Cuisine - Japanese restaurants in New York reportedly have a net profit margin of 12% to 15%, which is higher than that of Chinese restaurants [22][24]. - The article notes that the simplicity of Japanese cooking techniques allows for high raw material costs, but the cultural and experiential aspects create significant added value, leading to higher pricing [25][30]. - The trend of standardization and scalability in Chinese-run Japanese restaurants contrasts with the traditional "artisan spirit" of Japanese cuisine, allowing for rapid replication and increased profitability [32][33]. Group 4: Cultural and Ethical Concerns - Instances of mislabeling and sourcing issues have emerged, such as a restaurant in Hangzhou falsely claiming to use Japanese ingredients while sourcing locally [34][36]. - The article discusses the ethical implications of ingredient sourcing, including cases of fraud where imported goods are misrepresented as local products to command higher prices [43][46]. - The cultural significance of Japanese cuisine is being challenged by these practices, raising questions about authenticity and consumer trust in the culinary market [20][30].

Group 1 - The Japanese Ministry of Agriculture, Forestry and Fisheries (MAFF) introduced the "Overseas Japanese Cuisine Cooking Skills Certification Guidelines" in 2016, primarily aimed at discouraging Chinese chefs [1] - Many Chinese Japanese restaurants have created new dishes that deviate from traditional Japanese cuisine, leading to a loss of business for local Japanese establishments [2] - The certification exam has three levels: gold, silver, and bronze, with the gold level requiring the highest standards in culinary skills and cultural etiquette [3] Group 2 - As of September last year, there were only 23 global gold-certified chefs, most of whom were not Japanese [4] - The Japanese have been focused on targeting Chinese chefs, but they may overlook the broader issue of their own market share being threatened [5] - The rise of Chinese chefs in the Japanese cuisine sector reflects a larger trend where Japan's culinary reputation is being challenged [6] Group 3 - The salmon served in Chinese Japanese restaurants is often not air-freighted from Japan, while Japanese restaurants typically source their salmon from Norway [7] - Norway's salmon export to Japan increased dramatically from 2 tons in 1980 to 45,000 tons by 2000, indicating a significant shift in Japanese dietary habits [11] - The reliance on imported seafood is evident, with Japan importing a large portion of its seafood, including salmon, eels, and crabs from various countries [20] Group 4 - The Japanese restaurant industry has recognized the challenges posed by modern aquaculture and has adapted by enhancing the cultural aspects of dining experiences [32] - The "artisan spirit" in Japanese cuisine has shifted focus from raw materials and cooking techniques to cultural and experiential value, creating significant pricing power [36] - Chinese Japanese restaurants have adopted standardized and scalable operations, allowing for rapid replication and increased profitability [41] Group 5 - The Japanese seafood market has faced issues with food fraud, such as mislabeling imported products as locally sourced [56] - The reliance on imports has led to a situation where Japanese consumers are increasingly aware of the origins of their food, prompting a shift in purchasing behavior [59] - The global trend of sourcing high-quality ingredients from China has resulted in significant market changes, with China becoming a leading producer of various gourmet foods [48][49]