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GUCCI于佛罗伦萨发布2026早春系列
Jing Ji Guan Cha Bao· 2025-05-09 09:24
(原标题:GUCCI于佛罗伦萨发布2026早春系列) 本季系列延续品牌设计团队集体创作模式,为即将上任的创意总监Demna预留观察期。值得关注的是, Demna将在7月巴黎高定时装周完成BALENCIAGA收尾工作后正式履职,这一过渡期安排体现出GUCCI 对创意迭代的审慎态度。 同时,GUCCI 还公布了两项重要投资:一是成为 2026 佛罗伦萨夏季艺术季的最大赞助商,用现代艺术 装置为老建筑注入新活力;二是牵头修复 Parco delle Cascine 公园,延续从 2011 年就开始的 "文艺复兴 遗产保护计划"。据佛罗伦萨市政府透露,过去十年,GUCCI 在当地文化保护上总共花了超 3800 万欧 元。 有业内人士分析,在母公司开云集团调整架构的背景下,GUCCI 正通过强化意大利特色,来打造自身 独特优势。这次早春系列发布,不仅传承了创始人 Guccio Gucci "从传统中打造经典" 的理念,还为奢 侈品牌如何实现可持续发展,提供了新范本。 GUCCI确认2026早春系列回归品牌精神腹地,将于5月15日在佛罗伦萨Palazzo Settimanni档案馆发布全 新系列。这座始建于文艺复兴时期的 ...
Ermenegildo Zegna(ZGN) - 2025 Q1 - Earnings Call Transcript
2025-04-24 18:30
Financial Data and Key Metrics Changes - In Q1 2025, the group reported revenues of EUR 459 million, a decrease of 1% year-on-year compared to EUR 463 million in Q1 2024, with organic performance also down 1% [7][8][10] - The EBIT guidance for 2025 remains low single digit growth, reaffirming previous expectations [62][110] Business Line Data and Key Metrics Changes - Zegna brand revenues were EUR 293 million, up 3% supported by direct-to-consumer (DTC) channels, particularly in EMEA and the U.S. [10][11] - Thom Browne reported revenues of EUR 64 million, down 9% organic due to ongoing reduction in wholesale [11][12] - Tom Ford Fashion recorded revenues of EUR 67 million with a 3% organic growth driven by DTC channels [11][12] - Textile product line performance was down 9% due to decreased global demand from luxury goods brands outside the group [12] Market Data and Key Metrics Changes - The Americas remained the best-performing region, contributing 27% of total revenues with a 9% organic growth [14][15] - EMEA represented 34% of total revenues but was down 2%, primarily due to declines in Thom Browne's wholesale channel [13][14] - Greater China generated EUR 123 million, accounting for 27% of group revenues, down 12% [15][16] - Rest of APAC reported 8% growth, driven by strong performance in Japan and Singapore [17] Company Strategy and Development Direction - The company is focusing on a more selective distribution approach, particularly for iconic products, to protect brand integrity [121][125] - There is a strategic shift towards enhancing DTC channels, with a noted decline in wholesale performance [19][21] - The company plans to implement a mid single-digit price increase in response to U.S. tariffs, without significant changes to sourcing strategies [35][44][108] Management's Comments on Operating Environment and Future Outlook - Management expressed cautious optimism regarding the U.S. market, noting strong performance across various regions, while acknowledging ongoing softness in Greater China [42][120] - The company is seeing positive reactions to new product launches and marketing initiatives, particularly in the U.S. [30][35] - Management remains confident in the long-term trajectory of the brands despite current market challenges [66][110] Other Important Information - The company is preparing for the launch of new collections, with significant drops expected in Q2 and Q3 [49][50] - The upcoming fashion show in Dubai is expected to be a key event for brand visibility and engagement [110][111] Q&A Session Summary Question: Trends in Zegna Americas and market volatility - Management noted strong performance across the U.S. with no significant areas of weakness, although Greater China remains a concern [41][42] Question: Impact of Haider Ackermann's fashion show - The fall/winter products will be delivered starting from late May, with significant drops expected in June and September [49][50] Question: Zegna brand DTC growth and performance metrics - Management confirmed that the growth in DTC was primarily driven by mix, with higher ticket items contributing positively [75][76] Question: Thom Browne wholesale outlook - The full-year outlook for Thom Browne wholesale is expected to decline by 25% to 30% due to a more selective distribution strategy [81][82] Question: EBIT guidance and cost control measures - Management reiterated the low single-digit EBIT growth guidance and discussed ongoing efforts to control discretionary expenses [109][110] Question: Expectations for Greater China market - Management anticipates continued negative performance in Greater China, though less severe than in Q1 [120][121] Question: Retail KPIs and consumer sentiment - Positive retail KPIs in China include improved average selling price and conversion rates, despite low traffic [155][156]
Ermenegildo Zegna(ZGN) - 2025 Q1 - Earnings Call Transcript
2025-04-24 13:02
Financial Data and Key Metrics Changes - In Q1 2025, the company reported revenues of €459 million, a decrease of 1% year-on-year compared to €463 million in Q1 2024, with organic performance also down 1% [6][10] - The company confirmed a low single-digit EBIT growth guidance for 2025, indicating stable financial expectations despite market challenges [51][82] Business Line Data and Key Metrics Changes - Zegna brand revenues were €293 million, up 3% supported by direct-to-consumer (DTC) channels, particularly in EMEA and the US [8][14] - Tom Brown reported revenues of €64 million, down 9% organically due to a reduction in wholesale channels [8][17] - Tom Ford Fashion recorded revenues of €67 million, with a 3% organic growth driven by a strong DTC channel [8][19] - Textile product line performance was down 9%, attributed to decreased global demand from luxury goods brands outside the group [9] Market Data and Key Metrics Changes - EMEA represented 34% of total revenues but was down 2%, primarily due to declines in Tom Brown's wholesale channel [10] - The Americas contributed 27% of total revenues, with a 9% organic growth, particularly strong for the Zegna brand [10][12] - Greater China generated €123 million in revenues, accounting for 27% of group revenues, but reported a 12% decline [11][12] - Rest of APAC reported 8% growth, driven by strong performance in Japan and Singapore [13] Company Strategy and Development Direction - The company is focusing on a more selective distribution approach, particularly for iconic products, to enhance brand exclusivity and reduce competition with wholesale channels [98] - The strategy includes a mid-single-digit price increase in response to a 10% tariff increase on imported products to the US, aiming to protect EBIT without significantly impacting volumes [24][85] Management Comments on Operating Environment and Future Outlook - Management expressed a cautious approach towards Greater China, expecting continued negative performance but with a less severe decline over the year [96] - The company is optimistic about the US market, noting strong double-digit growth across various regions and brands [30][32] - Management highlighted positive retail KPIs, particularly in average selling price and conversion rates, indicating resilience despite traffic challenges [116][120] Other Important Information - The company opened two new stores during the quarter, including a significant location in Riyadh, Saudi Arabia [15] - The launch of new collections and marketing campaigns is expected to drive future growth, particularly for the Zegna brand [20][21] Q&A Session Summary Question: Trends in the Americas and product performance - Management noted strong performance across the US, with no specific areas of weakness identified, and highlighted Pennsylvania and Florida as particularly strong markets [30][32] Question: Impact of the fashion show and pricing strategy - The fashion show is expected to have a positive impact starting from Q2, with major product drops occurring from June onwards [38][39] Question: DTC growth and EBIT guidance - Management confirmed low single-digit EBIT growth guidance and indicated that DTC growth is expected to remain stable [51][82] Question: Performance in Greater China and wholesale outlook - Management anticipates a continued negative trend in Greater China, with a cautious outlook for wholesale across brands [96][98] Question: Retail KPIs and pricing architecture for Tom Ford - Management reported positive retail KPIs for Tom Ford, with a balanced approach to pricing and product mix expected in upcoming collections [70][72]
麦格理:上调普拉达目标价至88港元
Zheng Quan Shi Bao Wang· 2025-03-05 06:53
Core Viewpoint - Macquarie report indicates that Prada's retail sales in Q4 last year increased by 18% year-on-year, exceeding expectations, primarily driven by Miu Miu brand sales growth of 84% and Prada brand sales growth rising from 1.7% in Q3 to 4% in Q4 [1] Group 1: Sales Performance - Miu Miu brand sales grew by 84% year-on-year [1] - Prada brand sales growth improved from 1.7% in Q3 to 4% in Q4 [1] - Retail sales in Japan, Europe, and Asia-Pacific markets continued to grow, while the Chinese market shifted from low single-digit decline in Q3 to low single-digit growth [1] Group 2: Financial Metrics - Operating profit margin increased to 24.4% [1] - Capital expenditure for the year is set to increase to €550 million [1] Group 3: Strategic Outlook - The company is satisfied with the performance in the first two months of the current fiscal year and is confident in outperforming peers [1] - The company is considering strategic acquisitions but did not mention acquiring Versace [1] Group 4: Analyst Ratings - Macquarie raised Prada's net profit forecasts for the next two years and increased the target price to HK$88, maintaining an "outperform" rating [1]