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一碗红烧羊肉里的江南
Xin Lang Cai Jing· 2026-02-26 22:50
(来源:湖州日报) 转自:湖州日报 孙贤龙 汶川大地震后,我奉命赴四川广元参加灾后重建工作。有年冬天,我带了嘉兴秀洲的洛东羊肉回广元给 同事品尝,满心欢喜地交给食堂师傅,只叮嘱了一句:"辛苦蒸一蒸。"心里想着那浓油赤酱的汤汁,拌 饭该是何等滋味。 结果取餐时,只见干爽的肉块孤零零地躺在盘里。原来师傅把羊肉直接放在蒸架上蒸,冷冻凝结在羊肉 上的汤汁全部进了锅里。那一锅凝聚了江南水汽、桑柴火功与冰糖黄酒之魂的醇厚卤汁,在他看来,或 许与涮锅水无异。后来我渐渐明白,那锅被舍弃的汤汁,恰似两种饮食文化的隐喻——一种视醇厚为 魂,一种以清爽为本。我深切地感到,一方水土养一方人,也养一方近乎执拗的味觉信仰。 一碗红烧羊肉的变迁,从凭票供应的年节滋味,到菜市场里从容挑选的日常食材;从需要节省着用的柴 火与酱油,到灶台上琳琅满目的调料——这锅中风味的日渐丰厚与从容,便是最具体而细微的时代注 脚。恰如一位先生所言,这滋味本身,便是"中国人生活史的一部分"。 在江南,这部生活史的风味,尤为绵长而富足。 江南人吃羊肉,历史悠远,这饮食习惯本身,就是一场跨越千年的"北风南渐"。湖羊,如今杭嘉湖地区 的绝对主角,其祖先正是宋室南渡时, ...
当讨论面条时人们在讨论什么
Xin Lang Cai Jing· 2026-02-22 07:35
(来源:上观新闻) 我做的面条,是我是我都是我 想到小时候吾乡潮汕的一种面条叫甜面。是碱水面条煮成的汤面,汤色微黄,加上大量的白糖,除此没 有其他。 我常想,这与吾乡常年喝工夫茶有关系。在工夫茶的苦和各种高糖食物中,他们实现了"非零和博弈"。 在其它的省份有这样的甜面吗?听说有的,但几乎都成非遗了。吾乡至今仍有甜面,甚至还有炒的甜 面,乡间聚会总要来上一盘。要论黑暗,要论食物的想象力,这个东南边角的小城,真是很有说头。不 过,我在辽宁岫岩见识过另一种也很特别的面条,是酸的:"酸汤子"。 听说是用玉米粉发酵后做的,因为味道酸,要跟东北大酱搭配吃。酸汤子的制作方法很特别,使用的动 词叫"攥"(下图)。 我也攥过,还是在一个土灶上,用工具攥的。唉,非常难,很失败。首先要很用力,我是双手上阵,才 勉强挤出来的。其次要快,沿着锅里的空位分散着攥下去,否则会凝结在一起。第三,灶火很热,站远 了不宜操作,站近了我的小腿快被烤熟。第四,灶台太矮了,我弯着腰操作,差点整个人栽锅里了。第 五是结果:攥出来的面条不连续,每根都很短,简直不能称为根,只能称为撅。 只能说知易行难,以后我只用眼睛学会了就好,动手就不必了。 很荒唐对吗? ...
“泡唧”声声
Xin Lang Cai Jing· 2026-02-14 07:11
Core Viewpoint - The article highlights the cultural significance and culinary traditions associated with the preparation of fried snacks, particularly during the New Year celebrations in a fishing village, emphasizing the historical and social aspects of these practices. Group 1: Culinary Traditions - The preparation of fried snacks, referred to as "泡唧," is a significant culinary event during the New Year, characterized by the sounds and aromas of cooking, which create a festive atmosphere [1][2]. - Key ingredients for "泡唧" include fish such as ribbonfish and eel, which are prepared using specific techniques to achieve a desirable texture and flavor [2]. - The use of different types of flour for frying affects the texture of the snacks, with rice flour producing a crispy texture that hardens when cooled, while wheat flour results in a softer, fluffier product [2]. Group 2: Historical Context - The term "鼎" (ding) has evolved from a cooking vessel in ancient times to a common term for pots in the Minnan dialect, reflecting the cultural heritage of the region [1]. - The cooking technique known as "炮" (pao), which includes frying, has historical roots in ancient Chinese culinary practices, showcasing the evolution of cooking methods over time [3]. - The migration of people and the transmission of culinary traditions have played a crucial role in shaping the local food culture, linking past and present practices [4]. Group 3: Modern Relevance - Nostalgic flavors from traditional fried foods have become more accessible, transforming from seasonal delicacies to everyday items in local markets [5]. - The resurgence of interest in traditional fried snacks reflects a broader trend of valuing cultural heritage and culinary history in contemporary society [5].
煮饭何如煮粥强
Xin Lang Cai Jing· 2026-01-28 00:11
(来源:邯郸日报) 中国的饮食文化里,粥的历史久远,地位也很重要,典型的大众所爱。 转自:邯郸日报 陈剑 粥,就是我们北方人所说的稀饭,用米、面等食材煮成的半流质食品。与大鱼大肉相比,粥上不得席 面,但在日常生活中,粥才是最有竞争力、最具广泛性的美餐。 一日三餐离开肉可以,离开粥可是不行。饿了喝粥,累了喝粥,渴了也可以喝粥,因为粥可以补充水 分。肠胃不适、术后康复、女士产假都离不开小米粥。 贫困的日子里,粥是延续生命的首选,一日三餐都是粥。即使现在生活富足了,粥也是很多家庭的必 备。寒冷的冬天,喝一碗粥可以扩张血管,增加热量,驱寒补暖。常听人说:"天太冷,喝碗粥再走 吧,喝了粥就暖和了。" 精明的商家正瞄准了这一点,开发了揉合诸多元素的粥,如薏米粥、莲子粥、八宝粥、燕麦粥等等,五 花八门的粥多达百种。商家的创意,把生命的必需升格为养生的需求。从这个意义上讲,没有哪种食品 能够与粥抗衡。 粥不仅功效多,还易做。所有餐饮中,熬粥是最简单的,技术含量最低的,是一说就会的活儿。 熬粥虽简单,粥的历史却久远,《周书》记载黄帝"始烹谷为粥"。名医扁鹊、医圣张仲景还曾推出药 粥。进入中古时期,粥的功能更是将食用与药用高度融 ...
木须肉、醋熘木须……木须到底是什么?
Xin Lang Cai Jing· 2026-01-23 16:48
网友问:在中国北方,无论是家常菜馆还是京味餐厅,总能看到"木须肉""醋熘木须"等菜名。许多人初次见 到"木须"二字,会误以为指的是黑木耳。但仔细观察便会发现,这些菜的共同核心食材并非木耳,而是鸡 蛋。为什么普通的鸡蛋,在菜名中会被冠以如此雅致的别称? 那么,"木樨"又如何演变为今天我们更常听说的"木须"呢?这主要源于口语中的音变现象。在"木樨"(mù xī)的连读过程中,韵母"i"受前一字圆唇元音"u"的影响,发音逐渐圆唇化,在北方方言中便自然读成了"mù xū"。加之"须"字笔画更为简单,久而久之,"木须"便在菜单和口语中固定下来。 因此,这"木须"二字,不仅指代着盘中金黄的鸡蛋,更承载着一份饮食文化中的历史记忆与语言智慧。 为了给鸡蛋找一个体面代称,人们从大自然中找到了灵感——木樨,即我们熟悉的桂花。当鸡蛋被快速炒 散后,呈现出金黄油润、细碎蓬松的形态,宛如枝头盛放的簇簇桂花,色、形皆妙。于是,"木樨"这个充满诗 意的名字便被借用过来,既避开了俗字,又赋予了菜肴生动的意象。由此,蛋炒饭成了"木樨炒饭",蛋花汤便 是"木樨汤"。 DeepSeek答:这背后,源于一种流传已久的语言避讳习俗。在过去,"蛋"字在 ...
我的“潮菜缘”
Xin Lang Cai Jing· 2026-01-07 06:54
我不会做菜,并非美食家,也不算饮食文化的专业研究者,但我确实热爱潮菜等美食。十天前,在北京 举办的2025南风窗社会价值年度盛典上,我被授予"2025年度思想者"称号,发表主旨演说《2025,我的 文化观察与实践》,以这么一句日后可能被人记得的话收尾:"在一个到处充斥着AI神话,越来越玄 幻、越来越魔幻的世界中,保留某种对于乡土、方言、食物等具身性的接触、了解与迷恋,我认为,这 是当代人自我救赎的重要途径。" 《礼记·中庸》称:"人莫不饮食也,鲜能知味也。"我所理解的"味",兼及味蕾的感受、知识的积累、 历史的氛围以及文人的想象。在这个意义上,各个菜系都有值得认真发掘与阐扬的文化内涵,而不仅仅 是商业价值。 2022年12月9日,我应邀在"国家级非遗潮州菜文化传承与创新论坛"上作主旨演说,因疫情无法到场, 只好录制视频发布。这篇初刊《南方都市报》2022年11月20日的《美文美食,何以携手》,算是我用心 经营的文章。在我看来,饮食文化读物可分为三类:第一,饮食科学化——包括原料构成、营养分析、 制作技艺、成本核算、经营管理等,除了各级专门学校的教材,还有古今中外无数或精美或简陋的食 谱;第二,饮食地方化——谈 ...
识味顺德︱顺德粥世界的滚烫鲜香
Xin Lang Cai Jing· 2026-01-01 04:22
Core Viewpoint - The article highlights the cultural significance and culinary diversity of congee in Shunde, emphasizing its role as a beloved dish that transcends social classes and occasions, from breakfast to late-night snacks [1][3]. Group 1: Cultural Significance - Congee represents a rich cultural heritage in Chinese civilization, with a history dating back over 2200 years to the era of the Five Emperors [3]. - The preparation and consumption of congee reflect the philosophy of harmony with nature and the integration of various ingredients, showcasing the culinary wisdom of the Cantonese people [3]. Group 2: Types of Congee - Shunde congee can be categorized into several types, with the most common being the freshly cooked "生滚粥" (live congee), which is served hot and fresh, symbolizing a warm start to the day [4][5]. - The ingredients for "生滚粥" are carefully selected, including a variety of meats and vegetables, with the cooking techniques being crucial for achieving the desired flavors [5][7]. Group 3: Popular Variants - The "猪杂粥" (pork offal congee) is a popular breakfast item, made with fresh ingredients sourced directly from slaughterhouses, emphasizing the importance of freshness in its preparation [14][24]. - Another notable variant is the seafood congee, which incorporates high-quality ingredients like abalone and lobster, showcasing the culinary creativity in Shunde [20][22]. Group 4: Culinary Techniques - The preparation of congee involves specific techniques, such as the timing of adding ingredients to ensure optimal flavor and texture, which reflects the skill of the chef [15][25]. - The article emphasizes the importance of controlling the cooking process, particularly for mixed congee, to achieve a harmonious blend of flavors from different ingredients [8][19].
东西问丨何宏:从臭鳜鱼到鲱鱼罐头,世界美食为何 “臭”味相投?
Zhong Guo Xin Wen Wang· 2025-11-05 13:29
Core Insights - The article discusses the phenomenon of "stinky" foods across different cultures, exploring why these foods have gained acceptance and popularity despite their strong odors [1][3]. Group 1: Commonalities and Differences in Stinky Foods - Many foods known for their strong odors, such as stinky fish and fermented products, have a commonality in that they were historically developed due to food scarcity and preservation needs [3][5]. - The acceptance of these foods varies by culture, influenced by geographical and social factors, showcasing the diversity of culinary practices [3][6]. Group 2: Cultural Acceptance and Globalization - The spread of "stinky" foods has been facilitated by globalization, which has led to a greater openness to diverse culinary experiences among people from different backgrounds [5][6]. - The unique flavors of stinky foods, such as stinky fish and fermented tofu, are increasingly recognized and appreciated by international diners, reflecting a broader cultural exchange [6][7]. Group 3: Role of Stinky Foods in Cultural Understanding - Stinky foods serve as cultural symbols that can enhance understanding and appreciation between different cultures, as they are tied to local climates, historical changes, and community characteristics [7]. - As Chinese cuisine gains more recognition globally, foods like stinky fish are transitioning from being mere curiosities to becoming integral parts of the culinary landscape appreciated by a wider audience [7].
多图 | “鲜”声夺人!汕尾展团实力“引爆”深圳食博会
Nan Fang Nong Cun Bao· 2025-10-23 04:04
Core Viewpoint - The Shantou exhibition group has successfully captured attention at the 2025 Global High-end Food and Quality Agricultural Products Expo in Shenzhen, showcasing the region's unique culinary offerings and agricultural achievements [2][3]. Group 1: Exhibition Highlights - The Shantou exhibition features a vibrant display of local culture, including traditional fishing songs and tea ceremonies, which attract many visitors [12][20]. - The exhibition area showcases a variety of high-quality agricultural products and specialty foods, reflecting the fruitful results of Shantou's modern agricultural development [23][24]. - Popular products include seafood balls and beef balls from Shantou City Guotai Food Co., Ltd., which draw large crowds for tasting [28][29]. Group 2: Featured Products - The "Baolou Ginger" series from Shantou City Hengpin Agricultural Development Co., Ltd. has become a popular choice among visitors, especially with the cooling weather [33][34]. - Fresh and vibrant fruits such as oil olives and lemons from Shantou City Nanguo Agricultural Co., Ltd. are highlighted for their quality [36][37]. - The unique "Luhou Lei Tea," recognized as an intangible cultural heritage, attracts significant attention as visitors engage in the traditional preparation process [40][41]. Group 3: Marine Resources - The Shantou New Sheng Aquaculture Co., Ltd. showcases live lobsters and purple sea urchins, emphasizing the region's rich marine resources and quality seafood capabilities [47][48]. - Long queues form at the booth of Lufeng City Jurun Ecological Agricultural Technology Co., Ltd., where visitors eagerly await to taste sweet sweet potatoes and authentic Shantou rice noodles [52][53]. Group 4: Marketing and Engagement - The booth of Shantou City Fenglong Rice Industry Co., Ltd. features enthusiastic live streaming to promote the appeal of Shantou's high-quality rice to consumers nationwide [55][56].
近500名烹饪精英苏城亮绝活
Su Zhou Ri Bao· 2025-10-18 00:21
Core Viewpoint - The 2025 National Golden Chef Dish Display and Exchange Invitation Competition officially commenced on October 17, showcasing nearly 500 culinary elites from across China, highlighting regional culinary cultures and innovative cooking techniques [1] Group 1: Event Overview - The competition is a key professional event for the Chinese Chef Festival, featuring a vibrant atmosphere as chefs present their signature dishes [1] - Dishes reflecting regional characteristics are being showcased, attracting admiration from attendees who are eager to appreciate and photograph the culinary creations [1] Group 2: Featured Dishes - Wang Yaorong, general manager of Xiyuan Xirong Catering in Taiyuan, presented the innovative dish "Vinegar Pepper Yellow River Carp," which utilizes high-quality carp from the Yellow River and traditional Shanxi vinegar, showcasing Shanxi's culinary culture [1] - The cooking method for "Vinegar Pepper Yellow River Carp" emphasizes the importance of fresh ingredients and meticulous techniques, ensuring the fish retains its tenderness while absorbing the flavors of the sauce [1] - The "Braised Taihu Lamb" from Huzhou, Zhejiang, created by chef Shen Jinliang, is made from the waist and belly meat of Taihu lamb, using traditional techniques and has been recognized as a five-star gold medal dish in a previous competition [1][2] Group 3: Cooking Techniques - The preparation of "Braised Taihu Lamb" involves a seemingly simple method that requires only lamb soy sauce, emphasizing slow cooking over a fire for approximately three hours to achieve a tender and rich flavor [2] - The detailed cooking process ensures the dish is "tender but not mushy, rich but not greasy," highlighting the craftsmanship involved in traditional Chinese cooking [2]