千禧年以来的二十五年，是中国人在吃这件事情上最具创造力 的阶段之一。很多耳熟能详的菜都是在最近不到四十年出现和 流行的，陈晓卿将镜头对准了这些食物，也对准了这个时代中 那些创造食物、享受食物的人们：富士康工人、养蜂人、香港 烤乳猪店的老板和他正在考大学的女儿…… 作者： 宋笛 封图：受访者供图 编者按：2025年，经济观察报以"我们的四分之一世纪"为年终特刊主题，旨在通过数十位时代亲历者的故事，共绘一幅属于这段岁月的集体记忆图 谱。 稻来传媒一层有四分之一的面积都留给了厨房，一间中厨、一间西厨，陈晓卿时不时在这里露一手；公司顶楼有几个花坛，春夏会种些蔬菜，现在只剩 下几串蔫蔫的辣椒挂在枯枝上。 陈晓卿是中国最知名的纪录片导演之一。他导演的《舌尖上的中国》几乎成为中国影响力最广的纪录片。 在千禧年的第二个十年，美食纪录片与中国人蒸蒸日上的日子一拍即合，成为最受欢迎的纪录片类型。2017年离开央视创业后，陈晓卿和他的团队还 陆续推出了《风味人间》《风味原产地》《我的美食向导》等多个系列的美食纪录片。在短视频日盛的时代，这些动辄一集五十分钟的纪录片依然拥有 极高的点击率。 （陈晓卿 受访者供图） 千禧年以来的二十五 ...

编者按： 2025 年，经济观察报以 " 我们的四分之一世纪 " 为年终特刊主题，旨在通过数十位时代亲历者的故事，共绘一幅属于这段岁月的集体记忆图谱。 12月11日，陈晓卿给稻来传媒的同事们做了几道菜：炒小河虾、白不老烧肉、凉拌胡萝卜丝、冬瓜汤，还有一道粉条烧萝卜。粉条烧萝卜用的是陈晓卿老家 的做法，把姜炸得酥酥的、边缘都翘起来，这样能减少萝卜的生涩味。 稻来传媒一层有四分之一的面积都留给了厨房，一间中厨、一间西厨，陈晓卿时不时在这里露一手；公司顶楼有几个花坛，春夏会种些蔬菜，现在只剩下几 串蔫蔫的辣椒挂在枯枝上。 陈晓卿是中国最知名的纪录片导演之一。他导演的《舌尖上的中国》几乎成为中国影响力最广的纪录片。 在千禧年的第二个十年，美食纪录片与中国人蒸蒸日上的日子一拍即合，成为最受欢迎的纪录片类型。2017年离开央视创业后，陈晓卿和他的团队还陆续推 出了《风味人间》《风味原产地》《我的美食向导》等多个系列的美食纪录片。在短视频日盛的时代，这些动辄一集五十分钟的纪录片依然拥有极高的点击 率。 陈晓卿 千禧年以来的二十五年，是中国人在吃这件事情上最具创造力的阶段之一。很多耳熟能详的菜都是在最近不到四十年出现和流行的 ...

Core Insights - The rise of local cuisine is a response to consumer distrust towards pre-prepared meals, particularly after incidents like the Xibei pre-prepared dish controversy [1][9] - Local dishes are gaining popularity due to their fresh ingredients, on-site cooking, and high cost-performance ratio, with Douyin reporting a 76% year-on-year increase in local dish sales during the National Day holiday [3][7] - The trend reflects a broader shift in consumer sentiment towards food safety, emotional connection to cooking, and a return to value for money in dining experiences [9][11][13] Consumer Behavior - Consumers are increasingly prioritizing food safety and freshness, leading to a decline in trust towards pre-prepared meals [9] - The emotional connection to traditional cooking methods, such as the desire for "smoky" and "wok hei" flavors, drives consumers to wait for freshly cooked meals [11] - The average dining expenditure has decreased to 39.8 yuan, indicating a shift towards affordable yet quality local dishes [11] Market Dynamics - Local cuisine brands face challenges in national expansion due to the "impossible triangle" of maintaining quality, achieving scale, and controlling costs [14][24] - The contradiction between standardization and artisanal cooking poses a significant hurdle for local dishes aiming for broader market reach [16] - Regional supply chain limitations complicate the authenticity and quality of local dishes when expanded outside their native areas [18][20] Strategic Approaches - Successful local cuisine brands may find a balance between standardization and maintaining traditional cooking methods, potentially through "semi-standardization" [24] - Focusing on regional markets rather than aggressive national expansion can help maintain quality and brand integrity [26] - Concentrating on specific dish categories can streamline operations and enhance supply chain management [26] Industry Outlook - The restaurant industry is experiencing a contraction, with a 13.7% decrease in new registrations, highlighting the need for brands to focus on sustainability rather than mere growth [28] - The essence of dining is returning to its roots, emphasizing genuine cooking experiences over mass-market appeal [32] - The local cuisine market, projected to reach 5.6 trillion yuan in 2024, offers ample opportunities for diverse dining experiences to coexist [32]

Group 1 - The consumption market in Beijing has seen a significant boost during the National Day and Mid-Autumn Festival holidays, with over 500 promotional activities launched under the theme "京彩四季" [1] - During the 8-day holiday, monitored enterprises in retail, supermarkets, specialty stores, dining, and e-commerce achieved sales of 9.51 billion yuan, with foot traffic in 60 key commercial districts reaching 59.668 million, a year-on-year increase of 13.9% [1] - The "ticket root economy" was effectively activated by events such as the WTT China Grand Slam and the China Open, with consumers enjoying discounts at over 200 merchants by presenting event tickets [1] Group 2 - Nighttime consumption has also increased, with foot traffic in major commercial areas like the Yansha Blue Harbor and Asia Olympic Park rising by 39.1% and 2.1% respectively [3] - The total nighttime foot traffic across 60 key commercial districts reached 28.116 million, marking a year-on-year growth of 23.3% [3] - Dining establishments experienced high demand, with popular dishes at traditional restaurants becoming must-try items for tourists [3] Group 3 - Local residents are also favoring traditional restaurants for family gatherings, with revenue from old brand restaurants under Huazhen Group increasing by over 25% compared to the previous period [5] - Notable sales growth was reported for brands such as Ziguangyuan (98.8%), Wuyutai (44.5%), and Beijing Daoxiangcun (12.8%) [5] - The Guijie area saw a surge in customer traffic, with one restaurant reporting a record of 4,270 reservations in a single day [5] Group 4 - The city launched a series of themed tourism routes, including "Follow the Events to Tour Beijing" and "Autumn Harvest" rural tourism routes, enhancing travel options during the fall [5] - The influx of inbound tourists has also contributed to a significant increase in consumer spending, with a year-on-year growth of over 60% during the holiday period [5]

Core Insights - The National Day and Mid-Autumn Festival holiday in Beijing saw a vibrant consumer market, with over 500 promotional activities launched by the Beijing Municipal Bureau of Commerce, resulting in a total sales revenue of 9.51 billion yuan [1] - Key commercial districts recorded a foot traffic of 59.668 million, marking a year-on-year increase of 13.9% [1] Group 1: Event-Driven Consumption - The simultaneous hosting of two major international sports events, the China Open and WTT China Grand Slam, significantly boosted urban consumption, creating a "watch and shop" model in various commercial areas [2] - The "ticket root" concept allowed attendees to enjoy discounts at nearby restaurants and shops, effectively linking sports events with local commerce [2] Group 2: Innovative Consumption Experiences - The "Open Live Second Venue" at the 798 Art District combined sports with art, allowing visitors to enjoy exclusive benefits at over 100 brands and institutions using their event tickets [3] - New commercial projects, such as "Wei Gong·Fang Hua Li" and "World Square," attracted consumers with unique experiences, including robot-operated coffee making and themed cafes [4][5] Group 3: Night Economy and Consumer Engagement - The "International Light Consumption Season" in Chaoyang District enhanced nighttime consumer activity, leading to a 39.1% increase in night foot traffic in the Asia-Olympic business district [6] - Overall, nighttime foot traffic across 60 key commercial districts exceeded 28.11 million, reflecting a year-on-year growth of 23.3% [6] Group 4: Supply Chain and Retail Performance - During the holiday, the supply of essential goods in Beijing was robust, with major wholesale markets and retail chains ensuring adequate stock levels to meet diverse consumer needs [7] - Retailers like Wumart and Yonghui increased their inventory, particularly for holiday bestsellers, while Hema Fresh raised its stock by 30% for popular items [8] Group 5: Restaurant and Food Sector Dynamics - The restaurant sector thrived, with traditional brands experiencing significant revenue growth, such as Beijing Huaten Group's restaurants seeing over a 25% increase in revenue [9] - Creative dishes and seasonal specialties attracted customers, with specific restaurants reporting a 30% increase in dine-in revenue [10][11]

Core Insights - The traditional restaurants under Beijing Huaten Group experienced a significant increase in revenue during the National Day and Mid-Autumn Festival holiday, with a more than 25% month-on-month growth from October 1 to 7 [1] - The popularity of these restaurants was highlighted by long queues and high customer turnout, indicating a strong consumer interest in classic flavors and seasonal innovations [3] - The introduction of seasonal dishes featuring fresh ingredients, such as lotus root, contributed to the surge in consumer spending [5] - The "Huaten Autumn Market" showcased a blend of traditional and innovative culinary experiences, attracting a younger demographic and enhancing the overall festive atmosphere [6] Revenue Growth - Huaten's traditional restaurants saw a revenue increase of over 25% compared to the previous month during the holiday period [1] - The takeaway services of restaurants like Qingfeng Baozi and others reported a year-on-year revenue growth of over 10% [1] Customer Experience - The bustling atmosphere at restaurants like Gu Lou Mai Kai and Tong He Ju was characterized by high customer turnover, with tables being turned five to six times during peak hours [3] - Popular dishes such as Peking duck and traditional Shandong cuisine attracted both local and out-of-town visitors, enhancing the dining experience [3] Seasonal Innovations - Seven culinary masters sourced seasonal ingredients from Jiangsu Province to create innovative dishes, such as black truffle lotus root rolls and Thai-style meat sauce fried lotus root [5] - The introduction of these seasonal dishes not only revitalized traditional flavors but also appealed to modern tastes, leading to increased order rates [5] Market Engagement - The "Huaten Autumn Market" featured a mix of traditional snacks and creative offerings, providing a dual sensory experience that resonated with younger consumers [6] - Interactive activities and themed installations at the market contributed to its popularity, making it a trendy destination for social media engagement [6]

Group 1 - The core viewpoint highlights the impressive performance of traditional restaurants under Beijing Huaten Group during the National Day holiday, with a significant increase in revenue and popularity among both locals and tourists [2] - During the first seven days of the Golden Week, the revenue of Huaten's traditional restaurants increased by over 25% compared to the previous period [2] - Takeout services have become a vital channel for experiencing Beijing's culinary culture, with overall takeout revenue from Huaten's traditional restaurants growing by over 10% year-on-year [2] Group 2 - The introduction of seasonal innovative dishes, such as those featuring lotus root, has contributed to the popularity of Huaten's traditional restaurants during the autumn season [3] - The "Huaten Autumn Market" showcased a blend of traditional snacks and creative offerings, attracting a younger audience through interactive experiences [3] - Activities at the market, including games and social media engagement, have enhanced the appeal of traditional dining experiences, making them trendy among younger consumers [3]

从湖南的"田小狗"，到合肥的"傻子土菜"，再到遍地开花的"江西土菜"，这些馆子门口经常是大排长 龙。 数据显示，全国土菜相关企业已经超过了11万家，今年前四个月就新开了近2000家！一个看似"不讲效 率、不讲规模"的慢生意，怎么就突然成了餐饮界的香饽饽？ 有人说，它卖的是"一口乡愁"；也有人说，它靠的是"极致性价比"。土菜馆爆红的背后，其实是一场关 于"真实"的消费较量。 今天，我们就一起来拆解一下，这碗"土菜"里，到底藏着什么门道？ 01 一批主打"土食材、土做法、土风味" 的土菜馆迅速走红 一般土菜馆具备三大显著特征： 食材方面，注重选材本地化，多选用农家自种的青菜、萝卜、茄子等蔬菜，以及散养的土 鸡、土鸭等家禽，还有自然生长的小河虾、螺蛳等河鲜。这些食材较少经过工业化加工，保 留自然的原生气息与原始风味。 工艺方面，以传统土法为核心，强调慢火锅气、少添加，常见柴火慢炖、大火爆炒、清蒸、 凉拌等手法。 风味方面，带有强烈的地域属性，是地方饮食文化的直接体现。如湖南土菜馆的剁椒鱼头， 融合湘菜的辣与鲜；安徽土菜馆则善用腌货，如腌鱼红烧，咸香入味。 土菜是中国农村地区最具代表性的饮食形态，通常以农家自种的蔬菜 ...

Core Insights - Xiangtan, located in central Hunan, is part of the "Chang-Zhu-Tan Urban Circle" and is known for its rich culinary culture, particularly its famous dishes like "Mao's Braised Pork" and local rice noodles [1][2][9] Historical and Cultural Significance - Xiangtan has a history of over 1500 years and is a significant site for Huxiang culture, contributing to Chinese history through various intellectual and revolutionary movements [2][4] - The city is recognized as a "celebrity gathering place," with notable figures such as Mao Zedong and Qi Baishi having strong ties to the area [3][4] Culinary Highlights - "Mao's Braised Pork" is a signature dish associated with Mao Zedong, who had a fondness for it since his youth, and it has become a symbol of Xiangtan's culinary identity [2][3][10] - Xiangtan is also known for its "Xiang Lotus," which has a long history and is considered a high-quality agricultural product, with the "寸三莲" variety being particularly renowned [5][6] - The local rice noodles are softer and thinner compared to those in Changsha, making them ideal for absorbing flavors from the broth, with "十八总大码头米粉" being a popular establishment [6][9] Economic and Social Aspects - Xiangtan's historical prosperity is reflected in its vibrant commercial past, with references to its bustling markets and trade routes during the Ming and Qing dynasties [7][8] - The city has transformed its historical sites into cultural attractions, drawing tourists and preserving its rich heritage [8][12]

Group 1 - Xiangtan is part of the "Chang-Zhu-Tan Urban Circle" in Hunan, known for its rich culinary culture, particularly its famous dishes like "Mao's Braised Pork" and local specialties such as rice noodles and lotus seeds [1][2][7] - The city has a historical significance, being a birthplace of notable figures in Chinese history, including Mao Zedong and Qi Baishi, contributing to its reputation as a "celebrity city" [4][6][11] - Xiangtan's culinary offerings are deeply intertwined with its cultural heritage, showcasing a variety of traditional dishes that reflect the local history and lifestyle [12][20] Group 2 - The local cuisine includes unique dishes like "Chopped Pepper Fish Head" and "Water Boiled Live Fish," which highlight the region's culinary techniques and flavors [16][19] - Xiangtan is also known for its agricultural products, particularly "Xianglian" (lotus seeds), which have a long history and are recognized for their quality [7][10] - The city's historical commercial significance is illustrated by its past as a bustling trade hub, earning it the nickname "Golden Xiangtan" during the Ming and Qing dynasties [11][12]