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从爆品到标准:央视镜头溯源造物者“软膜”的产业化进阶
FBeauty未来迹· 2025-12-23 13:56
调配、涂抹、等待凝固、整片揭下。 ——这套曾经只在美容院完成的护肤仪式,如今正以高于面膜市场均速的增长,走入千万家庭 的梳妆台。 最近,央视网纪实栏目《新视界》探访了中国护肤品牌"造物者"的研发实验室。画面中没有喧 嚣的生产线,也没有宏大的营销叙事,只有工程师与粉体、液体反复对话的"安静"日常。这场 被称为 "与材质的对话" 的研发 ,正悄然撬动一个被长期低估的细分赛道——软膜。 造物者(ZAOWOO),这个被沙利文认证为"中国软膜销量第一"的品牌,成立仅两年多便服 务超千万消费者,单月销售额突破5 0 0 0万,成为这股潮流中最受瞩目的推动者与定义者。 图:央视网纪实栏目《新视界》探访造物者软膜工厂 中国面膜市场的发展历程,是一部围绕"效率"与"体验"不断迭代的进化史。 根 据 欧 睿 国 际 的 数 据 , 2 0 2 4 年 中 国 面 膜 市 场 整 体 规 模 已 达 5 8 7 亿 元 人 民 币 , 步 入 存 量 竞 争 阶 段。其中,以即时便捷为核心优势的贴片面膜,凭借约6 2%的市场份额构筑了稳固的护城河, 但增长曲线已逐渐平缓,显露出创新内卷的疲态。 与此同时,一个源于专业院线、曾被大众 ...
当美妆以科技定价,华熙生物被低估了?
FBeauty未来迹· 2025-12-22 10:53
Core Viewpoint - The beauty industry is transitioning from a "traffic-driven" growth model to a "technology-driven" endurance model, necessitating a reevaluation of value assessment based on technological innovation and manufacturing capabilities [6][10]. Group 1: Policy and Industry Trends - The National Medical Products Administration released two significant documents emphasizing "raw material innovation" and the establishment of internal raw material incubators in leading companies, marking a long-term strategic direction for the beauty industry [4]. - The focus on biomanufacturing as a key future industry has been reiterated in government reports, indicating a systemic push from research to industry regulation [8]. Group 2: Company Strategy and Positioning - Companies like Huaxi Biological, which have built biotechnological and manufacturing capabilities over the past two decades, are now being reassessed for their strategic significance in the new industry landscape [5]. - Huaxi Biological's consistent investment in R&D, exceeding 2.2 billion yuan since its listing in 2019, positions it among the industry leaders in innovation [12]. Group 3: Technological Advancements - Huaxi Biological is pioneering the synthetic biology approach to PDRN production, addressing traditional issues related to safety and efficacy through innovative methods [17][18]. - The establishment of a large-scale synthetic biology pilot transformation platform, with over 3 billion yuan invested, enables the systematic conversion of research outcomes into scalable products [21]. Group 4: Market Dynamics and Valuation Logic - The market is shifting its focus from immediate sales performance to long-term capabilities, emphasizing the importance of a company's ability to anchor itself for the next five to ten years [9][10]. - Huaxi Biological's ability to maintain a stable cash flow from its raw materials and medical terminal businesses supports its ongoing R&D efforts, allowing it to navigate industry fluctuations without sacrificing long-term goals [28]. Group 5: Future Outlook - The beauty industry's core competitiveness is increasingly centered on biotechnological and biomanufacturing capabilities, as evidenced by international giants investing in similar technologies [22]. - Huaxi Biological's comprehensive biotechnological and manufacturing system is seen as a "ticket" to navigate through industry cycles, with its true value beginning to be recognized by the market [31].
从美妆业首个自研AI大模型,看蜜丝婷的“技术主权”野心
FBeauty未来迹· 2025-12-19 10:14
Core Viewpoint - MISTINE has developed an AI model named SCOPE-DTI, marking a significant advancement in the beauty industry by creating a proprietary AI infrastructure for product innovation, as opposed to merely using AI for market analysis or marketing optimization [3][5][7]. Group 1: AI Model Development - The SCOPE-DTI model, published in the prestigious journal Nature Communications, represents the first self-trained AI model in the beauty industry, indicating a shift towards proprietary technology in product development [4][7]. - This model addresses a critical bottleneck in drug development by efficiently predicting interactions between new compounds and protein targets, thus transforming the traditional beauty ingredient development process from trial-and-error to precision-guided methods [10][11]. Group 2: Technological Paradigm Shift - The introduction of the SCOPE-DTI model signifies a fundamental paradigm shift in cosmetic research, moving from experience-driven methods to data-driven predictions, enhancing the efficiency and accuracy of ingredient selection [11][12]. - The model utilizes advanced algorithms and integrates data from 13 authoritative international databases, achieving over 80% experimental validation success rate, which significantly surpasses the average performance of general AI models [12]. Group 3: Commercial Application and Recognition - MISTINE has been recognized as the first brand to systematically apply this AI model in the specific area of "anti-light damage," achieving full industrialization of its research [14]. - The brand's proactive approach in 2022, participating in the development of guidelines for active ingredient development based on computational biology, laid the groundwork for its subsequent commercial success [15]. Group 4: Product Innovation and Market Position - The evolution of MISTINE's core ingredient "Yuguang Filter" exemplifies the role of AI in accelerating and optimizing product development, expanding the competitive dimension of sunscreen technology [20]. - MISTINE has established a strong market presence in various categories, including sunscreen and makeup, achieving significant sales milestones and leading positions in the Chinese market [22][26]. Group 5: Strategic Expansion and Future Outlook - The brand's strategic focus on skincare, leveraging its existing AI capabilities, indicates a calculated move into high-value segments with less competition, such as anti-aging products [28][29]. - MISTINE's development trajectory illustrates a clear path for the beauty industry, emphasizing the importance of technological originality and foundational research in building long-term competitive advantages [31][32].
NARS“迟到”丝芙兰:巨头转型与渠道革命的交叉点
FBeauty未来迹· 2025-12-18 14:22
Core Viewpoint - NARS has officially entered Sephora, marking a strategic shift for both the brand and the retailer in the evolving beauty retail landscape [3][10][11]. Group 1: NARS and Sephora Collaboration - NARS announced its collaboration with Sephora, launching the "NARS Multi-Use Blush Stick" across all channels [3]. - The timing of NARS's entry into Sephora has sparked discussions about the changing dynamics of brand and channel selection in the beauty industry [5]. - NARS has established a strong presence in China, with 55 counters across 40 cities, enhancing its professional and high-end brand image [8]. Group 2: Strategic Shifts within Shiseido Group - NARS has been elevated to one of the three core brands within Shiseido Group, alongside Shiseido and Clé de Peau Beauté, indicating a shift in its role from a growth contributor to a growth driver [11]. - NARS's online sales reached 1.761 billion yuan in the first 11 months of 2025, reflecting its strong position as a key growth engine within the group [14]. - The collaboration with Sephora is seen as a strategic move to access high-end beauty retail channels and reach a broader customer base [14]. Group 3: Industry Trends and Competitive Landscape - The beauty retail environment is rapidly changing, with traditional retailers like Sasa and Mannings exiting the market, prompting Sephora to adjust its brand selection strategy [18]. - The contrasting approaches of NARS and other brands, such as Drunk Elephant, highlight the evolving strategies of brands and retailers in response to market pressures [22]. - Shiseido's recent organizational changes, including the establishment of three new departments, aim to enhance operational efficiency and brand consistency amid industry challenges [25][27]. Group 4: Future Outlook - The strategic focus on core brands like NARS reflects a broader trend among multinational beauty companies to streamline operations and enhance growth potential in key markets like China and Asia-Pacific [30][31]. - NARS's entry into Sephora is not just a channel choice but a part of Shiseido's strategic deployment to consolidate its core growth engines in the face of industry transformation [31][32].
深度|万宁究竟做错了什么?
FBeauty未来迹· 2025-12-17 15:22
" 意料之中。 "一位前员工如此评价万宁的离场,语气中仍带有些许感慨。 近 五 年 来 , 万 宁 ( Ma n n i n g s ) 将 退 出 中 国 内 地 市 场 的 传 闻 屡 屡 浮 现 , 如 今 终 成 定 局 。 早 在 2 0 2 0年那场大规模闭店潮时,其官网曾将之定义为"门店优化",今天回看,那更像是一场漫 长退场的序幕。 1 2月1 5日,据万宁官网消息,因公司业务战略调整,将于2 0 2 6年1月1 5日前关闭所有中国内地 线下门店。天猫、京东、拼多多等线上电商渠道将于2 0 2 5年1 2月2 6日停止销售,售后服务将 持续至2 0 2 6年1月2 5日。此后,万宁业务将全面转向线上跨境电商。 图片截自万宁mannings官网 目前,其关联公司广东万宁连锁商业有限公司旗下数百家分店已大多处于"注销"状态。虽然仍 存 留 跨 境 线 上 渠 道 , 但 从 实 体 经 营 维 度 看 , 万 宁 已 实 质 性 退 出 中 国 内 地 市 场 。 这 位 曾 赫 赫 有 名,并启蒙一代消费者美妆护理认知的零售品牌,其败退已成定局。 过去几年,美妆零售进入密集洗牌期。莎莎国际、名媛 ...
深度 | 花西子入驻 Ulta,为什么是C-beauty出海的标志性事件?
FBeauty未来迹· 2025-12-16 10:08
Core Viewpoint - The entry of Chinese beauty brand Florasis into the mainstream U.S. beauty retail system through Ulta Beauty marks a significant shift in the international expansion of Chinese cosmetics, indicating a transition from merely selling products to establishing a sustainable presence in high-quality markets [5][12][23]. Group 1: Florasis' Entry into Ulta Beauty - Florasis officially entered the U.S. market by joining Ulta Beauty's online platform, showcasing a complete product range that includes intricately crafted makeup palettes and modern interpretations of Eastern-inspired lip products [5][6]. - The U.S. market has been historically challenging for Chinese beauty brands due to high competition and strict retail standards, making Florasis' entry through Ulta a notable industry signal [7][9]. - Ulta Beauty, established in 1990, is one of the largest beauty retailers in the U.S., featuring over 600 brands and 25,000 products, which emphasizes the importance of brand stability and consumer engagement for new entrants [9][10]. Group 2: Significance of Florasis' Market Position - Florasis' entry into Ulta Beauty signifies the growing trend of C-beauty (Chinese beauty) in the U.S. market, with the brand being recognized for its Eastern aesthetic [12]. - The inclusion of Chinese brands in mainstream U.S. retail systems reflects a broader evaluation of product performance, regulatory compliance, and brand messaging that resonates with mainstream consumers [12][23]. - Florasis has previously established a presence in Japan and France, indicating a strategic approach to building brand recognition before entering mainstream retail channels [13][17]. Group 3: Evolution of Chinese Beauty Brands - The traditional path for Chinese beauty brands involved relying on cross-border e-commerce and targeting Chinese consumer groups abroad, but this model has limitations in achieving long-term market presence [23][25]. - As competition intensifies in the global beauty market, brands must transition from a transaction-oriented approach to a more structured, sustainable model that emphasizes brand identity and consumer connection [25][26]. - Florasis exemplifies a new model of high-quality international expansion, focusing on long-term brand building and systematic capabilities rather than rapid market penetration [28]. Group 4: Industry Implications - The entry of Florasis into Ulta Beauty reflects a structural change in the Chinese beauty industry's approach to international markets, moving from peripheral participation to core market engagement [23][28]. - This shift indicates that Chinese beauty brands are increasingly being recognized as integral parts of the retail ecosystem rather than supplementary options, which has significant implications for the entire industry [28]. - The evolving landscape suggests that long-term value, systematic capabilities, and a global perspective are becoming essential for success in mature markets [28].
2026潘通色发布,但中国彩妆叙事逻辑已变
FBeauty未来迹· 2025-12-15 10:37
Core Viewpoint - Pantone has announced "Cloud Dancer" as the Color of the Year for 2026, marking the first time white has been chosen, symbolizing lightness, calmness, and fluffiness [3][10]. Market Trends - Pantone has created seven color palettes featuring "Cloud Dancer," including themes like Powdered Pastels and Light & Shadow, providing rich inspiration for the design industry [6]. - The announcement has sparked discussions online, with some viewing it as a reflection of low desire and non-aggressiveness in current societal emotions, while others question the choice of white compared to Pantone's historically vibrant colors [8][10]. Industry Impact - The home furnishings industry is increasingly favoring collaborations with Pantone's Color of the Year, with brands like JOYBIRD and Mandarin Oriental Hotel integrating "Cloud Dancer" into their designs [12]. - In the beauty sector, only the fragrance brand PURA has announced a collaboration with Pantone, launching a perfume that embodies the essence of "Cloud Dancer" through its scent profile [14]. Color Trends - Recent global color trends show a shift towards neutral tones, with gray shades gaining prominence in fashion and daily life [16]. - The popularity of green, influenced by biophilic design, has been waning since 2020, indicating a cyclical nature of color trends [19]. Domestic Brand Strategies - Domestic beauty brands are increasingly moving away from direct collaborations with Pantone, focusing instead on unique cultural narratives and emotional storytelling in their color interpretations [26][30]. - The concept of "makeup and skincare integration" is gaining traction, with brands developing products that emphasize both aesthetic and emotional value [36]. Cultural Integration - Eastern aesthetics are becoming a core competitive advantage for domestic beauty brands, with initiatives like the "Oriental Three Colors" launched by VOGUE and Xiaohongshu gaining popularity [32]. - Brands are exploring deeper cultural connections through their color offerings, moving beyond mere seasonal marketing to create products that resonate with consumers' identities and emotions [46][50]. Future Directions - The competition in color trends is evolving from merely following international trends to establishing a unique cultural identity and narrative [47][54]. - The future of color trends will focus on local relevance and storytelling, with brands needing to build their own systems that integrate traditional color theories with modern consumer needs [52][53].
独家 | 高丝中国换帅,“接棒者”擅长品牌重塑
FBeauty未来迹· 2025-12-12 11:18
Core Viewpoint - Kose Group has recently announced a significant management change in its China operations, appointing Ishii Yasuhiro as the new General Manager starting January 1, 2026, as part of its restructuring and performance recovery strategy for the Chinese market [3][20][25] Group 1: Management Changes - Ishii Yasuhiro, who has extensive experience in the Chinese market, will take over from the current Chairman and General Manager, Shinohara Kazuki, who will return to the headquarters to lead the Consumer Brand division [3][4] - This management change aligns with Kose's long-term strategy for 2030 and reflects the company's commitment to prioritize the Chinese market for global growth [3][20] Group 2: Ishii Yasuhiro's Background - Ishii has a diverse career spanning cosmetics, food, and electronics, with significant roles in Shiseido and other companies, focusing on brand marketing, channel development, and digital transformation in China [6][9] - His fluency in Chinese and deep understanding of local market dynamics position him as a strategic asset for Kose as it seeks to enhance its local operations [9][10] Group 3: Strategic Focus and Market Response - Under Ishii's leadership, Kose aims to solidify Decorte and Sekkisei as its core brands in China, targeting both high-end and mass markets through differentiated strategies [13][17] - The company has reported a rebound in sales in the Chinese market, with a notable increase in online average transaction value by 109% year-on-year, indicating a successful response to market demands [15][18] Group 4: Organizational Transformation - Kose is transitioning to a holding company structure, which will grant greater autonomy to its subsidiaries, including Kose China, enhancing operational efficiency and market responsiveness [20][23] - The new governance structure is designed to align with Kose's long-term vision of becoming a lifelong beauty partner, emphasizing the need for adaptability in a competitive market [23][25]
THE WHOO:作为国宾礼物的K-Beauty品牌,站上世界舞台
FBeauty未来迹· 2025-12-11 10:06
Core Insights - THE WHOO, a high-end skincare brand under LG Household & Health Care, was chosen as the official gift for spouses of leaders at the APEC summit, showcasing Korea's cultural and industrial prowess on a global stage [4][5][6] - The brand emphasizes a blend of traditional Korean aesthetics and modern scientific validation, positioning itself as a leader in the K-Beauty wave [7][10] Brand Recognition and Cultural Significance - The gifting of THE WHOO products at APEC serves as a diplomatic gesture, reflecting Korea's national spirit and manufacturing strength [5][6] - The brand's packaging and formulation were meticulously designed to highlight Korean culture and advanced technology, with unique gift boxes created by a master craftsman [5][6] Product Innovation and Scientific Backing - THE WHOO's Imperial Youth Complex, derived from 30-year-old wild ginseng, exemplifies the brand's commitment to combining traditional herbal ingredients with modern biotechnology [9][10] - The brand has conducted extensive research involving 57,000 Asian women to understand skin characteristics, leading to the development of innovative materials that cater to market needs [9][10] Market Strategy and Global Positioning - THE WHOO aims to establish scientific credibility for its anti-aging products, with a focus on transparency and international scientific collaboration [11][12] - The brand's strategy includes deep cultural engagement in key markets like China, enhancing its high-end image through collaborations with traditional cultural icons [14][17] Performance and Competitive Edge - During the 2025 Double Eleven shopping festival, THE WHOO ranked among the top three high-end skincare brands on Douyin, reflecting its successful cultural connection with Chinese consumers [14] - The brand has expanded its offerings to include collaborations with Chinese cultural elements, enhancing its appeal and cultural resonance [15][17] Future Directions and Challenges - THE WHOO faces the challenge of converting its recognition as a state gift into sustainable brand equity while maintaining its high-end positioning [23][24] - The brand is pursuing a global strategy focused on high-end product lines and optimizing distribution channels to enhance market efficiency [19][24]
研报 | 共诞生27个诺奖,一文读懂多肽的百年科研史
FBeauty未来迹· 2025-12-10 12:02
Core Viewpoint - The article systematically reviews the global development history of peptide research, particularly focusing on skin-active peptides, their discovery, mechanisms, clinical applications, and future research directions, highlighting significant milestones and breakthroughs in the field [3][7][43]. Development History of Peptides - The concept of "peptide" was first proposed by Hermann Emil Fischer in 1902, laying the foundation for peptide chemistry and subsequent research in skin-active peptides [9][10]. - In 1922, insulin became the first peptide drug extracted from animal pancreas, demonstrating the biological activity and therapeutic potential of peptides [11]. - The 1950s saw significant breakthroughs in peptide synthesis techniques, including the total synthesis of oxytocin and vasopressin, which opened new avenues for peptide production [12][13]. Key Discoveries and Applications - The discovery of GHK-Cu (blue copper peptide) in 1973 marked a turning point in skin-active peptide research, proving the biological basis for small peptides in skin regulation and repair [17]. - The introduction of palmitoyl tripeptide-1 and palmitoyl hexapeptide-12 in 1992 represented a shift towards biomimetic signaling functions in cosmetic applications [29][31]. - The 2000s saw the emergence of neuropeptide inhibitors like acetyl hexapeptide-3, which mimic the effects of botulinum toxin without the need for injections, becoming popular in anti-aging products [33]. Current Research Trends - AI-assisted peptide design and transdermal delivery technology are at the forefront of current research, significantly shortening development cycles and improving delivery efficiency [37][38]. - The use of enzymatic hydrolysis and recombinant DNA technology has become prevalent in producing bioactive peptides, enhancing the feasibility of large-scale production [28][39]. Future Directions - Future research is expected to focus on overcoming challenges related to synthesis complexity, stability, and regulatory compliance, with an emphasis on personalized skincare solutions based on individual skin characteristics [45][47]. - The rise of Chinese research teams, exemplified by Han Shu's development of ring hexapeptide-9, signifies a growing presence in the global peptide market, showcasing innovation in cosmetic ingredients [39][41][42].