【独家采访 · 第 182 家】 在上海这个烘焙"战场"，新店开得快，关得也快。有人拼装修、有人拼流量、有人拼联名，靠话题 感维持热度。但也有人选择逆行—— 「mbd（magnificent bread destination）」 。 直译"极好的面包目的地"，现在已经成为魔都人一日三餐的面包目的地，百吃不腻的回访地。 destination mificent 120 mbd 不开平台官方账号，不凑热闹，没有营销，只默默把面团揉好，把面包烤到最合适的状态。但八年 后，它却被媒体评为 "沪上最佳法棍" ， 恰巴塔 更是被魔都人民称为"抢不到的传说"。 东京烘焙职业人原创《中国烘焙匠人店》系列已开启。来 # 听创始人说，说他们精彩的创业故事。 我们希望能够从创始人、主理人的经历中，去记录、去观察、去思考开店这件不容易的事情，我们 相信，这是一种值得探索的事。 在一个人人争着"快"的行业里，「mbd」用"慢"赢得了时间。 近期，我们采访了 「mbd」的负责人。 很少有人知道，今天的「mbd」，最初差点成了一家卖包子油条的早餐铺。 2016 年末，几个朋友聚在一起聊创业点子，有人随口说："要不我们开个早餐店吧？"大家 ...

Core Viewpoint - The article highlights the unique journey and philosophy of "Avec Toi" French bakery in Shanghai, emphasizing its longevity and success through craftsmanship and quality over mere marketing and trends [1][3][34]. Group 1: Bakery Longevity and Philosophy - The average lifespan of a bakery in Shanghai is around three years, with five years considered exceptional, yet "Avec Toi" has thrived for 11 years [1][3]. - The bakery's success is attributed to a commitment to time-honored techniques and a focus on quality ingredients rather than relying on marketing hype [3][34]. - The founder, an elderly Japanese baker, brought his expertise from France to Shanghai, blending French baking traditions with Japanese precision [5][7]. Group 2: Leadership Transition - The current leader, Pang Junjie, transitioned from a management role in a major dessert brand to a hands-on role in baking, emphasizing a return to craftsmanship [10][11]. - Pang's experience in a fast-growing chain provided her with insights into the balance between quality and scale, which she now applies to "Avec Toi" [10][11][13]. Group 3: Product Offerings - Signature products include a unique cream baguette, which has become a symbol of the bakery, and a new egg tart that has quickly gained popularity [17][22]. - The bakery emphasizes the use of high-quality imported ingredients and traditional methods, such as hand-kneading, to create distinctive flavors and textures [33][25]. Group 4: Market Position and Future Plans - "Avec Toi" operates without paid promotions, relying instead on word-of-mouth and customer loyalty, which has allowed it to stand out in a competitive market [34]. - Future expansion plans are cautious, focusing on maintaining quality and the handmade process rather than rapid growth [34].

烘焙版"烧饼夹肉"，49元/个 意想不到的食材混拼，吸引了不少消费者前去尝鲜。尤其是贵州酸汤牛肉恰巴塔，摊位在进场就能看到的"黄金位置"，配色鲜亮，和隔板的贵州冰浆一 起，吸引了不少消费者，平均排队40分钟。 ◎图源：小红书 价格上，都说烘焙圈有自己的货币体系，恰巴塔也不例外。在面包节上，钵钵鸡恰巴塔、贵州酸汤牛肉恰巴塔等的原价均为49元/个，关注店家的小红书 账号可减10元。 永远不缺新品的烘焙圈，又跑出来个新"顶流"。 抖音上，#恰巴塔 有7.8亿次播放，如#滑蛋恰巴塔、#中式恰巴塔，均超千万次播放；小红书上#恰巴塔 词条下，也有高达4.3亿的浏览，117.2万讨论。 在上周末举办的北京国际面包节上，内参君在不少摊位上，都看到了恰巴塔的身影： ◎摄图：内参君 顾名思义，这些餐点就是将食材放入切开的恰巴塔中，做法类似肉夹馍，看起来又像烤饼夹菜，吃起来营养搭配均衡，极具饱腹感。 ◎摄图：内参君 有消费者和朋友吐槽： "买48串钵钵鸡，再花1块买个烧饼，也是这个价。" "不至于，你买48块的钵钵鸡，烧饼店家都直接送了。" 健康化、在地化，为什么主理人们都看上了恰巴塔？ 尽管恰巴塔在"圈内"极受欢迎，但对更多消费 ...

Core Viewpoint - The rise of Ciabatta bread in China reflects significant changes in the baking industry, including the trends of pre-packaged retail, the main food transformation of baked goods, and the health-consciousness of consumers [25][26]. Group 1: Rise of Ciabatta - Ciabatta, originally a traditional Italian bread, has gained popularity in China, transitioning from niche high-end bakeries in cities like Beijing and Shanghai to mainstream consumer markets [5][7]. - Major pre-packaged baking companies, such as Taoli Bread and Man Keton, have recently launched Ciabatta products, indicating its entry into a larger market and potential to become a leading industry item [5][11]. - The health-oriented attributes of Ciabatta, such as high water content and simple ingredients, have made it appealing to health-conscious consumers, particularly those focused on fitness and low-sugar diets [7][19]. Group 2: Retail Transformation - The trend of retailing baked goods is reshaping the baking industry, with offline dining and packaged foods influencing each other [12][13]. - Pre-packaged products like bagels have successfully transitioned from in-store to retail, breaking the limitations of "freshly baked" sales [13][15]. - New retail platforms, including Sam's Club and Hema, are leveraging their cold chain and delivery networks to promote baked goods, which serve as key products for attracting customers [16][17]. Group 3: Main Food Transformation - Baked goods are increasingly being integrated into main meal scenarios, moving beyond traditional roles as breakfast or snack items [18][20]. - Ciabatta and bagels are becoming popular as meal substitutes, aligning with modern consumer preferences for convenience and health [19][20]. - The trend of main food transformation in baked goods aligns with similar developments in markets like Japan and the U.S., where bread has become a staple food [21]. Group 4: Health and Taste - The baking industry is now focused on creating products that balance health and taste, with consumers demanding both attributes [22][24]. - Local innovations in Ciabatta recipes, such as incorporating local ingredients, have contributed to its success in the Chinese market [24]. - The evolution of Ciabatta's formulation in China, including increased water content and olive oil, reflects a shift towards meeting local consumer preferences [24].

Core Viewpoint - The article emphasizes the importance of fine-tuning the cold fermentation method in baking to achieve desired textures and flavors in bread, highlighting four key factors: bubble quantity, mixing degree, refrigeration temperature, and dough thickness [1][31]. Group 1: Bubble Quantity - The primary consideration in bread making is the desired mouthfeel for consumers, which is significantly influenced by controlling bubble quantity [1][3]. - Different markets have varying preferences; for instance, French consumers favor a chewy texture, while Japanese consumers prefer a softer texture, leading to different applications of cold fermentation methods [5]. Group 2: Mixing Degree - Higher mixing degrees are required in cold fermentation to compensate for bubble loss during refrigeration, ensuring the dough retains sufficient bubbles for optimal texture [6][10]. - The article provides a comparative example showing that longer mixing times result in greater dough elasticity and larger final bread volume, with more bubbles leading to better baking expansion [10][12]. Group 3: Refrigeration Temperature - The fermentation speed of yeast increases with higher refrigeration temperatures, which also affects the dough's elasticity and bubble quantity [15][21]. - A temperature of -2°C results in the least bubble reduction and the softest texture, while higher temperatures lead to more chewiness and potential over-fermentation issues [20][21]. Group 4: Dough Thickness - Dough thickness significantly impacts the cooling effect during cold fermentation; thicker dough cools unevenly, leading to over-fermentation and poor quality bread [22][29]. - The article illustrates that a 5cm thick dough yields a more uniform cooling effect and better quality bread compared to a 10cm thick dough, which suffers from over-fermentation [29].

Core Viewpoint - The article discusses the history and global rise of Ciabatta bread, created in Italy in 1982 as a response to the popularity of French baguettes, highlighting its unique characteristics and the marketing efforts that contributed to its international success [1][2][4]. Group 1: Origin and Creation - Ciabatta was invented in 1982 in the northeastern Italian city of Adria as a counter to the dominance of French baguettes in Italy [4][8]. - Arnaldo Cavallari, a rally champion and flour mill owner, initiated the creation of Ciabatta to reclaim Italy's bread market [7][8]. - The name "Ciabatta," meaning "slipper" in Italian, reflects its unique shape and texture, which features a crispy crust and a moist, airy interior [10]. Group 2: Global Expansion - Ciabatta's global success is attributed to health trends and Cavallari's marketing efforts, as he personally taught local bakers how to make Ciabatta across Italy [12][14]. - The bread first entered the UK market in 1985 through a partnership with Marks & Spencer, and later in 1987, it was introduced to the US as a high-end artisan bread [16][18]. - The 1990s saw Ciabatta become synonymous with Panini sandwiches, further popularized by marketing campaigns and events like the Milan Expo [18][20]. Group 3: Modern Developments - In the 2010s, Ciabatta gained traction in China, particularly in urban areas, as health-conscious consumers favored its high hydration and simple ingredients [27][29]. - The introduction of frozen Ciabatta products made it more accessible, with brands like La Famiglia achieving significant market share in Australia [25]. - The article emphasizes that Ciabatta's evolution reflects broader trends in modern dining and the global awakening of bread consciousness [40].

Core Viewpoint - High hydration bread, characterized by its high water content, presents both challenges and advantages in baking, making it a unique and desirable product despite its difficulties in preparation [1][5][10]. Group 1: Benefits of High Hydration Bread - High hydration bread retains moisture, resulting in a chewy texture and making it easier to consume for those who dislike dry bread [10]. - It can delay staling, extending the shelf life of the bread compared to traditional methods that rely on eggs and fats [11][12]. - The use of minimal yeast and long fermentation at low temperatures enhances the aroma and flavor of the bread [13][14][15]. Group 2: Challenges of High Hydration Bread - The high water content makes the dough sticky and difficult to shape, leading to lower efficiency in production [18][62]. - The dough tends to flatten during baking due to its loose structure [19]. - High hydration bread is prone to mold growth, necessitating careful storage to prevent spoilage [21]. Group 3: Preparation and Techniques - The water content in the dough is calculated as a percentage of the flour weight, with high hydration dough defined as having over 70% water [28]. - A specific recipe for ciabatta includes 90% hydration, requiring careful measurement of ingredients [24][29]. - Techniques such as autolyse (water absorption) and gentle handling during shaping are crucial for achieving the desired dough quality [30][52]. Group 4: Baking Process - The baking temperature for high hydration bread should be higher to ensure proper cooking without hardening the crust too quickly [58]. - A typical baking process involves preheating the oven to 220-240°C and may require longer baking times compared to standard doughs [60]. Group 5: Industry Insights - The highest recorded hydration level for bread is 120%, showcasing the extremes that can be achieved in high hydration baking [65]. - Despite the challenges, the unique texture and flavor profile of high hydration bread continue to attract bakers and consumers alike [63].

Core Viewpoint - The article highlights the entrepreneurial journey of a community bakery named "Bread Commune" in Qingdao, focusing on its unique offerings and the founder's innovative approach to baking and customer engagement [2][4][48]. Group 1: Entrepreneurial Journey - The founder, Xiao He, transitioned from a corporate trade job to baking due to a personal need for authentic French bread, which was unavailable in her area [6][8]. - Initially lacking baking knowledge, Xiao He learned through online resources and formal training, demonstrating resilience and a willingness to adapt [11][12]. - The bakery was established to fill a market gap for healthier, savory breads, contrasting with the prevalent sweet options in the region [12][13]. Group 2: Product Offerings and Market Strategy - "Bread Commune" offers nearly 100 SKUs daily, including over 60 types of bread and 30 types of pastries, with the signature product being the ciabatta [25][27][30]. - The bakery emphasizes seasonal innovation and customer co-creation in product development, fostering a community-oriented atmosphere [36][40]. - Pricing strategy focuses on affordability, aiming to provide high value to customers, especially during economic downturns [42]. Group 3: Brand Growth and Customer Engagement - The bakery has gained a loyal customer base through word-of-mouth, with customers traveling long distances to purchase products [45][46]. - Transparency in the baking process and the use of high-quality ingredients, such as imported French flour, enhance customer trust and satisfaction [22][42]. - The founder's vision is to create a sustainable community bakery that prioritizes quality and customer relationships over rapid expansion [48][50].

Core Viewpoint - Ciabatta has emerged as a top favorite among young consumers, ranking among the top three bread types alongside bagels and king cakes, despite its unconventional appearance and texture [1][4]. Group 1: Market Position and Consumer Preferences - Ciabatta represents a successful case of "dislocated competition," having been created in 1982 by Italian bakers to counter the dominance of baguettes in Italy [6]. - The bread's simple ingredients—flour, yeast, water, salt, and 3% to 5% olive oil—allow it to appeal to health-conscious consumers, aligning with the trend towards minimalist diets [7]. - Its high moisture content results in a soft, chewy texture that contrasts with traditional European breads, making it more appealing to Asian palates [9][10]. Group 2: Trends in Bread Consumption - The trend of bread transitioning from a "snack" to a "staple" food is evident, with ciabatta fitting perfectly into this shift due to its convenience for eating and versatility in various culinary applications [12]. - Ciabatta's unique structure makes it ideal for holding fillings, enhancing its suitability for sandwiches and other meal formats [12][13]. - The bread's low flavor interference allows it to pair well with a variety of ingredients, making it a versatile choice for both high-end dining and street food [14]. Group 3: Production and Quality - The production process of ciabatta is friendly to both artisanal and industrial methods, allowing for longer shelf life and ease of transport [13]. - The choice of flour is critical, with CDC flour having a protein content of 11.3%, which provides the necessary gluten structure to support the high hydration levels typical of ciabatta [19]. - The quality of the flour significantly influences the final product's flavor, with CDC flour offering a clean wheat aroma and rich taste, essential for this minimalist bread [21]. Group 4: Innovation and Market Evolution - Ciabatta is driving a wave of innovation in the Chinese baking market, with creative combinations such as sour soup beef ciabatta and spicy beef ciabatta emerging [38]. - The introduction of frozen ciabatta dough and pre-baked retail options is expanding its availability, making it a more everyday product [40]. - As a result, ciabatta is becoming a signature product for many mid-to-high-end baking brands, emphasizing ingredient quality and brand differentiation [42].

Core Viewpoint - The article highlights the journey of "Linggan Bakery" in Wenzhou, which focuses on healthy, oil-free, and sugar-free French bread, emphasizing the importance of quality and traditional baking methods in a market dominated by pre-made products [2][5][17]. Group 1: Company Background - "Linggan Bakery" has become a pilgrimage site for French bread enthusiasts, offering a menu that includes hard European bread, baguettes, and croissants, all without oil or sugar [2][17]. - The founder, Zhou Jun, has over 20 years of experience in the baking industry, starting from a factory worker to a skilled baker, and has a deep passion for the craft [8][11][12]. Group 2: Business Strategy - Zhou Jun chose to differentiate the bakery by focusing on health-conscious products, despite the market trend favoring soft and sweet breads [17][22]. - The initial investment for the bakery was planned at 200,000 yuan but eventually exceeded 1 million yuan to create a professional and systematic space for healthy European bread [23]. Group 3: Product Development - The bakery uses a self-cultivated yeast that has been maintained for five years, contributing to the unique flavor of their bread [23]. - Zhou Jun emphasizes the importance of local ingredients and has innovated by incorporating local flavors into traditional recipes, such as using local soy sauce and various grains [29][32]. Group 4: Market Reception - Initially, the local consumers were not receptive to the hard, oil-free bread, but Zhou Jun engaged with customers to educate them on the benefits of his products, gradually building a loyal customer base [26][50]. - The bakery's reputation improved significantly after winning the "Best Artistic Bread Award" at the French Bread Festival, which helped local customers recognize the quality of their offerings [39][41]. Group 5: Future Aspirations - Zhou Jun aims to elevate the status of French baking in China, aspiring for a cultural respect similar to that in France, where only certified masters can display national symbols on their uniforms [41]. - The bakery continuously updates its menu, reflecting a commitment to innovation and customer feedback, ensuring that products remain fresh and relevant [43][44].