□ 本报记者 王紫茜 焦香的糖油饼、咸香的炸酱面、热气腾腾的打卤面……北京胡同里的小馆，正以传统的手艺、实在的价格和浓浓的烟火气， 吸引着越来越多的消费者，其中不乏有专程寻味的年轻人。这些藏在街巷里的味道，不仅承载着老北京的文化记忆，更在与 新一代消费需求的碰撞中，折射出消费市场的理性回归与本真追求。 胡同烟火里的老味道 传递着北京的文化底蕴 "您几位？里边儿请——"进入黑窑厂糖油饼门店，油饼的焦香混着热油的滋滋声扑面而来。厨房里，师傅抡着胳膊揉面，面 团在案板上"砰砰"作响，擀开、抹糖、对折，转眼成了生坯，滑入油锅后没多久就鼓鼓囊囊地浮起。 记者看到，平日中午，店里百余张座位已挤得满满当当。"您要是再早来会儿，座位更紧张。到了周末，队伍能一直排到店 门外头去。"店员告诉记者。 "来个糖油饼、一碗豆汁儿！"家住附近的张大爷是这家店的"回头客"，"吃了很多年，就好这口儿。"他表示，"你看这店，三 十多年了，手艺一直没丢。"旁边桌的年轻姑娘小李正举着手机拍桌上的美食，"我是通过小红书知道的这家店，初次来尝糖 油饼，刚咬下去那股焦香混着糖甜就直往嘴里钻，难怪大家都奔着它来。" "黑窑厂糖油饼历经八道工序，糖配比更是 ...

Group 1 - The "Erfu" festival has led to increased demand for traditional noodle dishes in Beijing, with many restaurants preparing for the surge in customers [1][2] - Popular dishes such as the small braised meat knife-cut noodles and new offerings like snow vegetable minced meat noodles have sold out quickly, indicating strong consumer interest [1] - Sales of cold noodles at established restaurants like Emei Restaurant have increased by approximately 200% compared to regular days, showcasing a significant rise in popularity [1] Group 2 - The traditional fried sauce noodles remain a key highlight during the "Erfu" festival, with daily sales exceeding 1,000 portions and preparations made to increase stock by 30% to meet demand [2] - The expected peak sales for the weekend could surpass 1,700 portions in a single day, with total summer sales projected to reach around 45,000 portions, reflecting an 18% year-on-year increase [2]

Core Viewpoint - The article discusses traditional Chinese dietary customs during the "Sanfu" (the hottest days of summer), highlighting specific foods consumed and their cultural significance. Dietary Customs - The saying "Eat dumplings on the first Fu, noodles on the second Fu, and pancakes with eggs on the third Fu" reflects the dietary customs prevalent in northern China, particularly in regions like Beijing, Tianjin, and Shandong, where wheat-based foods are staples [1][2] - Dumplings are consumed on the first Fu as they symbolize wealth and good fortune, with their shape resembling gold ingots and the phonetic similarity between "Fu" (福) and "wealth" [1] - Noodles, such as Zhajiangmian, are also popular during this period, with ingredients varying based on personal taste and seasonal vegetables [2] Historical Context - Historical records indicate that during the Wei, Jin, and Northern and Southern Dynasties, "soup pancakes" were consumed to ward off evil spirits believed to be active during the hot summer days [3] - In southern regions like Jiangsu, different customs exist, such as eating wontons on the first Fu and herbal teas during the hot days [3] Nutritional Aspects - The practice of consuming more nutritious foods during the Sanfu period is aimed at maintaining health during the hot summer, with eggs being a common source of nutrition [2] Cooling Methods - Various methods to cope with the summer heat are mentioned, including the use of ice, which was historically distributed by government offices in Beijing during the hot season [5] - People also sought shade and enjoyed outdoor activities as a way to escape the heat [5]

Core Insights - The summer season has led to a significant increase in restaurant traffic in Beijing, with many establishments reporting daily customer numbers in the thousands and turnover rates of up to 12 times a day [1][3][4] - The night economy is thriving, with a 120% month-on-month increase in night orders since July, driven by extended operating hours and the introduction of night-themed dining options [7][9][10] - The Beijing government has initiated a plan to enhance consumer spending, focusing on high-quality development in the restaurant industry and promoting the integration of dining with cultural and recreational activities [12][14] Group 1: Restaurant Performance - Many restaurants near tourist attractions have seen a surge in customer numbers, with some reporting increases in sales of 15%-20% and customer traffic up by over 30% [3][4] - Specific restaurants, such as 烤匠麻辣烤鱼 and 巴奴毛肚火锅, have reported exceptionally high turnover rates, with some locations achieving over 10 turnovers on weekends [3][4] - The demand for local delicacies, such as Beijing snacks and roasted duck, has surged, with some outlets experiencing sales growth of over 40% [3][6] Group 2: Night Economy Growth - Night orders in Beijing have increased by 120% since July, with traditional late-night foods like barbecued seafood seeing an 80% rise in orders [9][10] - The popularity of late-night dining has led to significant increases in sales of beverages and snacks, with beer and ice products seeing over 150% growth [9] - Restaurants are adapting by extending their hours and creating night-themed dining experiences, with establishments like 海底捞 launching night market concepts [10][11] Group 3: Government Initiatives and Industry Trends - The Beijing government has released a plan to boost consumer spending, which includes creating 30 "late-night dining" streets and enhancing the quality of dining areas [12][14] - The integration of dining with cultural experiences is becoming essential, as restaurants seek to attract diverse consumer groups by offering unique experiences [13][14] - The summer season and the growth of the night economy are seen as opportunities for restaurants to innovate and enhance their offerings, preparing for future peak seasons [12][14]

Group 1: Industry Trends - The summer season has led to a peak in the Beijing dining industry, with a 5% increase in both revenue and customer traffic compared to the same period last year, driven by the integration of cultural tourism and dining experiences [1] - The dining industry is experiencing a shift from single-function offerings to a more complex experience, with consumer demand evolving towards unique flavors, cross-industry features, and dining atmospheres [10] - The deep integration of cultural tourism and dining is seen as a long-term trend rather than a temporary fad, focusing on experiential consumption and emotional resonance as new values in the dining sector [11] Group 2: Company Initiatives - Fangzhuanchang 69, a brand specializing in Zhajiangmian, has seen a 14% year-on-year increase in customer traffic and a 54% increase compared to the previous week during the summer solstice, indicating a strong demand for cultural understanding of the dish [2] - The brand has implemented training for staff to master the "three steps to eat noodles" and cultural responses, as well as multi-language interpretations of key terms related to Zhajiangmian [6] - The collaboration between "Jingcheng San Taizi" and Xiaotiao Pear Soup has resulted in an 8% increase in revenue and a 3% increase in customer traffic, showcasing the effectiveness of IP collaborations in enhancing dining experiences [7] Group 3: Cultural Integration - The "Beihai Park North Shore Market" has become a popular summer destination, showcasing intangible cultural heritage crafts and allowing visitors to engage in hands-on activities, thus promoting cultural appreciation [8][9] - The market features seasonal products and integrates local design elements, supporting the sustainable development of intangible cultural heritage through various initiatives [9] - The combination of cultural elements with dining experiences is creating new value propositions for consumers, as seen in the introduction of themed afternoon teas and creative products at the market [12]

Core Viewpoint - The article explores the unique breakfast cultures in different regions of China, highlighting the experiences of foreign individuals who have immersed themselves in local culinary traditions and the cultural significance behind these meals [5][11][17]. Group 1: Inner Mongolia Breakfast Culture - The breakfast in Inner Mongolia is characterized by hearty dishes such as lamb offal soup, baked bread, and various dairy products, which are designed to provide substantial energy for the day [6][8]. - The term "hard breakfast" refers to the filling nature of the food rather than its texture, reflecting the historical lifestyle of nomadic herders who required high-calorie meals [8]. - The quality of lamb in Inner Mongolia is attributed to the natural grazing conditions, which reduce the gamey taste, enhancing the overall flavor of the meat [9]. Group 2: Hainan Breakfast Culture - In Hainan, breakfast is not just about food but also about social interaction, exemplified by the "old dad tea" culture where people gather to enjoy tea and dim sum [11][13]. - The variety of local rice noodles, such as the Sanya port noodles, showcases the region's emphasis on fresh ingredients and distinct flavors, with each type of noodle reflecting local characteristics [14][15]. - The experience of trying unique dishes like the Lingshui sour noodles highlights the adventurous spirit of exploring local cuisine, which often includes unexpected ingredients [15]. Group 3: Beijing Breakfast Culture - Beijing's breakfast scene features traditional foods like fried sauce noodles and douzhi (fermented mung bean drink), which are deeply rooted in the city's history and culture [17][19]. - The preparation and consumption of these dishes often involve a communal aspect, with many breakfast vendors located in bustling areas, creating a lively atmosphere [18]. - The stories behind the dishes, such as the origin of the door nail meat pie, add a layer of cultural richness to the culinary experience in Beijing [19].

Core Viewpoint - The article discusses the phenomenon of long queues at popular restaurants in major Chinese cities, particularly focusing on the experience of dining in Beijing, highlighting the social dynamics and consumer behavior associated with trendy eateries [2][3][4]. Group 1: Restaurant Queuing Culture - In cities like Beijing, the concept of "delicious, cheap, and no queue" is deemed impossible, leading to a culture where people endure long waits for food [2][3]. - The article illustrates the extreme queuing situation at a popular restaurant "烤匠" (Kao Jiang), where customers may wait up to 9 hours to dine, showcasing the lengths people will go to for trendy food experiences [4][5][8]. - The experience of waiting in line often leads to mixed feelings about the food quality, with some customers expressing disappointment after long waits, indicating a potential disconnect between expectation and reality [17][53]. Group 2: Social Media Influence - Social media platforms like 小红书 (Xiaohongshu) play a significant role in driving the popularity of certain restaurants, creating a cycle of hype and disappointment as consumers flock to these locations based on online recommendations [39][41]. - The article notes that the marketing strategies employed by restaurants often lead to a "hunger marketing" trap, where the act of queuing becomes a social experience rather than just a means to enjoy a meal [49][50]. - Consumers are increasingly aware of the pitfalls of following social media trends, developing a critical eye towards the quality of food at highly publicized establishments [40][56]. Group 3: Economic and Cultural Context - The article highlights that in times of economic downturn, dining out becomes one of the few affordable forms of entertainment for young people in urban areas, leading to a surge in demand for trendy eateries [55][56]. - The phenomenon of queuing for food reflects broader societal trends, where young people seek validation and a sense of belonging through shared experiences, even if those experiences are often disappointing [57][58]. - The article concludes that as long as consumer tastes evolve, new restaurants will continue to emerge, perpetuating the cycle of queuing and social media hype [58][59].