（原标题：韩束签王嘉尔撑场面，国货品牌陷 "全球代言人" 幻觉） 10 月 13 日，韩束正式宣布王嘉尔成为品牌全球代言人。短片上线的瞬间，社交媒体被热度淹没，官宣 视频点赞破万，话题登上微博热搜。 然而网友的评论分化明显——有人称赞"太国际化了""韩束这波高级了"；也有人质疑"王嘉尔自降身 段""给了多少代言费"。 毕竟近年来活跃在亚洲市场的王嘉尔，已然成为火遍日韩及东南亚市场的流量小生，连iPhone17Pro上 市，苹果都联合他借助新歌的MV《Get Loose》进行新品推广。而此前，韩束近年来官宣的代言人为贾 乃亮、赵今麦、丁禹兮、林一以及田栩宁等，相比之下，此次官宣王嘉尔为品牌的全球代言人，确实属 于极大手笔。 这场看似热闹的官宣，引发的讨论远超一场商业合作的范畴。在热度与争议之下，一个更值得追问的问 题浮出水面：一个国货品牌，请一个跨国市场的明星代言，就真的"国际化"了吗？ 01 "全球代言人"，国货品牌的新幻觉 近年来，"全球代言人"成为国货品牌营销语境中最具象征意味的称谓。从珀莱雅签刘亦菲为防晒产品全 球代言人、到霸王茶姬升级网球新星郑钦文为全球代言人，再到韩束官宣王嘉尔，这些举措的背后逻辑 ...

Core Viewpoint - Natural Hall, a Chinese beauty brand, has submitted its IPO application to the Hong Kong Stock Exchange, marking its entry into the capital market after 24 years of operation. However, the company faces challenges due to its heavy reliance on marketing over research and development, which has led to significant risks and volatility in its financial performance [1][2][3]. Financial Performance - Revenue growth has slowed, with figures of 4.292 billion, 4.442 billion, and 4.601 billion yuan for 2022, 2023, and 2024 respectively, indicating a year-on-year growth of approximately 3.5% in 2024. The first half of 2025 saw revenue of 2.448 billion yuan, a year-on-year increase of 6.43% [3][4]. - Net profit has shown instability, with figures of 139 million, 302 million, and 190 million yuan for the same years, reflecting a significant increase of 117% in 2023 but a decline of 37.1% in 2024 [3][4]. - Gross margin has improved from 66.5% in 2022 to 70.1% in the first half of 2025, but net profit margin remains low at 3.2%, 6.8%, 4.1%, and 7.8% for the respective years [4][5]. Marketing vs. R&D Investment - The company has heavily invested in marketing, with expenditures of 2.445 billion, 2.406 billion, 2.717 billion, and 1.347 billion yuan from 2022 to the first half of 2025, accounting for over 50% of total revenue each year [6][7]. - In contrast, R&D investment has been significantly lower, totaling only 348 million yuan over the same period, which is just 13% of the marketing expenditure in 2024. The R&D expense ratio has decreased from 2.8% in 2022 to 1.7% in the first half of 2025 [6][7][8]. Brand Reputation Risks - The reliance on celebrity endorsements has exposed the brand to risks, particularly highlighted by recent controversies involving its global skincare ambassador, Yu Shuxin, which could impact brand reputation during the IPO process [9][10][16]. - Consumer complaints have accumulated to 1,627 on third-party platforms, with many reporting allergic reactions to products, raising concerns about product safety and customer satisfaction [16][18]. Corporate Governance and Family Control - The company is primarily controlled by the Zheng family, holding approximately 87.82% of voting rights, which raises concerns about corporate governance and minority shareholder rights [20][24]. - Despite bringing in external investors like L'Oréal and Jia Hua Capital, the Zheng family maintains absolute control, which may affect the company's ability to modernize its governance structure in response to market expectations [24][26].

Core Insights - Douyin's beauty category GMV increased by 19.7% year-on-year in September 2025, but saw a quarter-on-quarter decline of 10.4% [1] - Domestic brands showed strong performance in self-operated sales, with 60% of the top 20 beauty brands having a higher GMV contribution from self-operated channels than from influencers [2] - The trend of domestic brands replacing foreign ones continues, suggesting a focus on domestic brands that are expanding their market presence and brand influence [1] Group 1: Market Performance - The total GMV of the top 20 beauty brands on Douyin reached over 3 billion yuan in September, marking a year-on-year growth of 38.59% [1] - Han Shu maintained the top position with a GMV exceeding 500 million yuan, with 40% of brands experiencing over 100% growth [1] - Seven new brands entered the top 20 list, accounting for 35%, including Meishi, Shiseido, and Afu, with significant ranking improvements [1] Group 2: Price Distribution - The price distribution in the beauty and skincare category is relatively balanced, with products priced under 150 yuan holding the largest market share at 49.54% [3] - The GMV contribution from products priced under 300 yuan increased by 2.54 percentage points, while the share of products priced over 1,000 yuan decreased by 1.09 percentage points [3] - In the color cosmetics and fragrance category, 74% of GMV comes from products priced under 150 yuan, indicating a concentration in lower price ranges [3] Group 3: Investment Recommendations - Recommended stocks include: 1. Mao Ge Ping (01318), a leading domestic high-end beauty brand with strong product and channel expansion [4] 2. Proya (603605), known for its mature organizational structure and industry-leading marketing capabilities [4] 3. Marubi Biological (603983), which continues to release strong single product potential [4] 4. Shangmei Co. (02145), benefiting from the trend of affordable consumption with multi-category and multi-channel development [4] 5. Runben Co. (603193), a quality domestic brand in the mosquito repellent and baby products sector with significant growth potential [4]

Market Performance - The Hang Seng Healthcare Index decreased by 2.74% as of October 14, 2025, with mixed performance among constituent stocks [1] - The Hang Seng Healthcare ETF (513060) fell by 1.74%, with a latest price of 0.68 CNY, but has seen an 18.15% increase over the past three months [1] - The Hong Kong Stock Connect Innovative Drug Selection Index dropped by 3.58%, with the latest price of the corresponding ETF (520690) at 0.94 CNY, reflecting a decline of 2.28% [2] - The CSI Pharmaceutical 50 Index decreased by 1.24%, with the latest price of the Pharmaceutical 50 ETF (159838) at 0.63 CNY, showing an 11.34% increase over the past three months [2] Liquidity and Trading Activity - The Hang Seng Healthcare ETF had a turnover of 12.72% and a trading volume of 884 million CNY, indicating active market participation [1] - The Hong Kong Innovative Drug Selection ETF recorded a turnover of 21.74% with a trading volume of 90.47 million CNY [2] - The Pharmaceutical 50 ETF had a turnover of 1.01% and a trading volume of 1.66 million CNY, with an average daily trading volume of 6.33 million CNY over the past week [3] Regulatory and Market Developments - The National Healthcare Security Administration issued a notice to strengthen the regulation of retail pharmacies, targeting "dual pricing" practices, which may accelerate compliance in the pharmacy sector [3] - Boteng Co., Ltd. expects a revenue growth of 17%-21% year-on-year for the first three quarters, indicating a recovery in the CDMO sector driven by global client pipeline expansion [3] - Four Seasons Pharmaceutical has acquired a stake in Swiss Suisselle SA, gaining exclusive rights to the CELLBOOSTER® product, enhancing its international brand collaboration and product matrix [3] Institutional Insights - The overall signal for the pharmaceutical sector is neutral, with regulatory pressures on retail pharmacies but resilience in CDMO and medical aesthetics sectors [4] - Short-term focus is on the sustainability of performance recovery for companies like Boteng, while mid-term attention is on international collaborations in medical aesthetics and growth in the innovative drug outsourcing industry [4] Fund Flows and Performance - The Hang Seng Healthcare ETF saw a net inflow of 12.05 million CNY, accumulating 177 million CNY over the past 15 trading days [6] - The Hong Kong Innovative Drug Selection ETF reached a record high of 434 million shares, with a net inflow of 2.89 million CNY recently [7] - The CSI Pharmaceutical 50 Index includes major companies like WuXi AppTec and Hengrui Medicine, with the top ten stocks accounting for 59.46% of the index [8]

Investment Rating - The investment rating for the beauty care industry is "Positive" (maintained) [4] Core Insights - In September 2025, the GMV (Gross Merchandise Value) of the beauty category on Douyin increased by 19.7% year-on-year, although it saw a month-on-month decline of 10.4% [4] - The top 20 beauty brands on Douyin achieved a total GMV exceeding 3 billion yuan, with a year-on-year growth of 38.59%. Notably, the brand Han Shu maintained its leading position with over 500 million yuan in GMV, and 40% of brands in the top 20 experienced more than double growth [4] - Domestic brands showed strong performance, with 60% of the top 20 brands having a higher GMV contribution from self-operated channels than from influencer promotions. Brands like Han Shu and Bai Que Ling had over 70% of their GMV from self-operated channels, indicating a competitive advantage for domestic brands in self-operated channels [4] Summary by Sections Market Performance - The beauty and skincare product price distribution is relatively balanced, while the color cosmetics and fragrance categories heavily rely on affordable products. The price segment under 150 yuan accounted for 49.54% of the market share in September, marking it as the main price segment [4] - Products priced under 150 yuan made up 36.23% of the skincare category, while products priced over 1,000 yuan contributed over 10% to GMV. In contrast, 74% of the GMV in the color cosmetics and fragrance category came from products priced under 150 yuan, indicating a more concentrated price distribution [4] Investment Recommendations - The report suggests focusing on domestic brands that are continuously enhancing their market scale and brand influence through mainstream channels. Recommended stocks include: 1. Mao Ge Ping, a leading high-end domestic beauty brand with strong product and channel expansion capabilities 2. Po Lai Ya, known for its mature organizational structure and industry-leading marketing and management capabilities 3. Wan Mei Biological, which is experiencing accelerated brand growth through its flagship products 4. Shang Mei Co., benefiting from the trend of affordable consumption with multi-category and multi-channel development [4]

Group 1: Cosmetics Industry Insights - The new consumer brands in the cosmetics sector are expected to achieve a compound annual growth rate (CAGR) of 20%-30% in revenue and profit over the next 2-3 years due to product upgrades and brand building [1] - Retail sales of cosmetics showed steady growth with year-on-year increases of 4.5% and 5.1% in July and August 2025, respectively [1] - The Q3 performance was relatively stable during the off-season, but some companies experienced a decline in revenue growth compared to previous quarters; the overall industry is expected to see low single-digit growth in Q4 2025 [1] Group 2: Marketing Strategies - The effectiveness of influencer marketing is diminishing, leading brands to focus more on the certainty and sustainability of traffic [2] - A shift in marketing strategies is observed, moving from reliance on influencers to a renewed focus on celebrity endorsements, utilizing a flexible matrix approach and short-term collaborations [2] - The new celebrity endorsement model aims to leverage the immediate sales conversion from celebrity fans while enhancing brand image and reaching new demographics [2] Group 3: Medical Aesthetics Industry Insights - The medical aesthetics sector is facing increased competition with a rapid approval of upstream consumables, while the difficulty in maintaining and acquiring new clients at downstream institutions continues to rise [3] - The Q3 performance of Langzi Co.'s medical aesthetics business showed slight improvement compared to H1, but revenue still experienced a low single-digit decline year-on-year [3] Group 4: Upstream and Downstream Dynamics - The demand growth rate is slowing, with an increasing number of products like hyaluronic acid and botulinum toxin being approved, intensifying competition [4] - There is a recommendation to focus on new materials with regulatory advantages, particularly the potential of PDRN [4] - The downstream sector is exploring a "Sam's Club" model in medical aesthetics, with a focus on replicating the business model from first-tier to second and third-tier cities [4]

Group 1 - Han Shu officially announced Wang Jiaer as the global ambassador, marking his first endorsement for a domestic beauty brand, which aligns with the company's accelerated globalization strategy covering multiple countries [1] - Han Shu's projected revenue for 2024 is 5.591 billion yuan, representing an 80.9% year-on-year increase, with Douyin GMV reaching 6.784 billion yuan, maintaining its position as the top beauty brand [1] - The international celebrity endorsement is expected to enhance Han Shu's premium image and overseas recognition, potentially boosting social media engagement and new product sales [1] Group 2 - Zara plans to open a large flagship store in Shanghai on Huaihai Road, featuring five levels of retail space and incorporating the latest technological innovations for an enhanced consumer experience, set to open in the first half of 2026 [2] - The flagship store's location in a core business district reflects Zara's confidence in attracting high-end consumer traffic in China, which may contribute to Inditex's sales growth in the region [2] - The high rental and renovation costs associated with the flagship store could dilute profit margins if sales do not meet expectations, while the technological experience may strengthen brand loyalty and increase foot traffic in surrounding areas [2] Group 3 - Yonghui Supermarket announced a transformation towards product centralization over the next three years, with plans to create 100 billion-yuan-level products and expand its private label offerings to 500 by 2029 [3] - The company's strategy involves moving away from traditional hypermarket models to focus on quality and low-cost supply chain reforms, aiming to validate the benefits of store renovations in the short term [3] - The success of this transformation will depend on the ability to replicate the "Fat Donglai" model nationwide and the pace of strategic partnerships and SKU expansion, with potential valuation recovery if same-store sales improve [3] Group 4 - The General Administration of Customs highlighted the rise of domestic trendy products as a new highlight in foreign trade exports, with over 50 billion yuan in exports of holiday goods, dolls, and animal-shaped toys in the first three quarters of the year [4] - These products, which have gained global popularity, reflect the influence of traditional Chinese culture and the creativity of foreign trade enterprises, supported by China's manufacturing capabilities [4] - The designation of these trendy products as a "new highlight" is expected to boost market sentiment in the short term, while the long-term outlook depends on the resilience of products with original IP and overseas channels [4]

Summary of Key Points from Conference Call Records Industry or Company Involved - **Pork Industry**: Focus on companies like Muyuan, Dekang, Wens, Shennong, and Juxing Agriculture - **Beauty and Personal Care Industry**: Highlighting brands such as Mao Ge Ping and Shangmei - **Gold and Jewelry Industry**: Recommendations for Changhongqi and Caibai - **Retail Industry**: Emphasis on Xiaoshangpin City and Bubu Gao - **Education and Training Sector**: Focus on K12 education leaders and AI applications - **Restaurant and Beverage Sector**: Recommendations for Mixue and Guming - **Automotive Industry**: Focus on Huawei's smart vehicles and Changan Automobile - **Textile Manufacturing Sector**: Recommendations for companies in the ASEAN region and Nike's supply chain - **Innovative Pharmaceutical Industry**: Focus on companies with high R&D investment Core Points and Arguments - **Pork Industry**: The significant impact of pork prices on CPI, with a noted 8.5% decrease in pork prices leading to a 0.12 percentage point drop in CPI in June 2025. The strategy of capacity control to boost pork prices is crucial to mitigate CPI pressure [2][3][4] - **Beauty and Personal Care**: The industry is in a traditional off-season, but high-end brands like Mao Ge Ping and operationally strong brands like Shangmei are recommended due to low base effects from last year [6] - **Gold and Jewelry**: Despite a 20% drop in gold jewelry consumption in Q2, brands with strong same-store performance like Changhongqi and low-valuation, high-dividend companies like Caibai are recommended [6] - **Retail Sector**: Xiaoshangpin City is highlighted for its strong business certainty, while Bubu Gao is noted for potential investment opportunities post-unlock of shares [7] - **Education Sector**: K12 education leaders and AI applications are emphasized, with companies like Dou Shen and Fen Bi showing strong growth [8] - **Restaurant Sector**: The rise of takeaway services is noted, with companies like Guming and Mixue recommended for their growth potential [8][9] - **Automotive Sector**: Huawei's smart vehicles are performing well, with new models like M7 and M8 expected to launch soon, while Changan's S9 model shows stable delivery [10][11][12] - **Textile Manufacturing**: The sector is expected to see performance and stock price turning points, with a focus on companies benefiting from reduced tariffs in the ASEAN region [13][14][15] - **Innovative Pharmaceutical Industry**: A new cycle of R&D investment is anticipated, with a focus on companies sensitive to domestic demand recovery and those specializing in large molecules and oncology [26][27] Other Important but Possibly Overlooked Content - **Pork Industry**: The adjustment in the pork breeding sector is linked to broader economic conditions and CPI management strategies [3][4][5] - **Retail Sector**: The potential for supermarkets and department stores to experience operational turning points is noted [7] - **Automotive Sector**: The upcoming launch of multiple new models indicates a strategic push for market share [10][11][12] - **Textile Manufacturing**: The impact of tariff changes on the competitive landscape and the potential for recovery in the sector is highlighted [14][15] - **Innovative Pharmaceutical Industry**: The increasing trend of funding sources and the focus on early-stage research are critical for future growth [26][27]

Core Viewpoint - Chando, a Chinese cosmetics brand, has submitted its IPO application to the Hong Kong Stock Exchange, aiming to enhance brand power and expand its brand matrix, amidst increasing reliance on its main brand and rising sales expenses [1][3][4]. Group 1: IPO and Market Position - Chando has officially submitted its IPO application, marking its entry into the capital market after 24 years of establishment, with Huatai International and UBS as joint sponsors [3][4]. - Unlike competitors like Proya and Marubi, which have already gone public, Chando's delayed IPO has raised industry speculation regarding its motivations, including financial independence and desire for greater control [3][4]. - The company claims to be the "third largest domestic cosmetics group in China," indicating its ambition to join the top tier of the industry [5][9]. Group 2: Financial Performance - Chando's revenue has shown consistent growth, with projected revenues of 42.92 billion, 44.42 billion, and 46.01 billion CNY for 2022, 2023, and 2024 respectively, reflecting growth rates of 3.49% and 3.58% for 2023 and 2024 [4][6]. - In the first half of 2025, Chando achieved revenue of 24.48 billion CNY, marking a year-on-year growth of 6.43% [4]. Group 3: Brand Dependency and Strategy - Chando's revenue heavily relies on its main brand, which accounted for 94.6%, 95.9%, and 95.4% of total revenue from 2022 to 2024, indicating a significant brand dependency [6][7]. - The company has several sub-brands, but their contribution to revenue is less than 10%, highlighting a lack of diversification [6][7]. - Experts suggest that Chando's IPO could provide solutions to its brand dependency issues through acquisitions and a more balanced multi-brand strategy [6][7]. Group 4: Sales and R&D Expenses - Chando's sales expenses have been high, with figures of 24.45 billion, 24.06 billion, and 27.16 billion CNY from 2022 to 2024, representing 57%, 54.2%, and 59% of annual revenue respectively [10]. - In contrast, R&D expenditures have been decreasing, with 1.2 billion CNY in 2022, dropping to 423.8 million CNY in the first half of 2025, indicating a declining focus on product development [10]. - The company plans to allocate part of the IPO proceeds to enhance R&D capabilities and expand its international presence [10][11].

Core Insights - Shanghai Shangmei Cosmetics Co., Ltd. announced international superstar Jackson Wang as the global ambassador for its core brand, Han Shu, marking Wang's first endorsement of a domestic beauty brand [1] - Han Shu, founded in 2003, achieved a revenue of 5.591 billion yuan in 2024, representing a year-on-year growth of 80.9%, and maintained the top position in Douyin's beauty category with a GMV of 6.784 billion yuan [1] - The brand's success is attributed to its continuous investment in research, product development, and brand building, establishing a strong presence in various channels [1][2] Brand Development - Han Shu has developed a multi-category matrix including skincare, makeup, hair care, and personal care, with several products achieving top positions in their respective categories [2] - The flagship product, Han Shu Red Waist Set, has sold over 16.5 million sets across all channels, consistently ranking first in Douyin's skincare set category [2] - The brand's marketing strategy includes signing popular figures like Ding Yuxi, Tian Xuning, and Jackson Wang to connect deeply with younger consumers [2] Global Strategy - The appointment of Jackson Wang is a significant step in Shangmei's globalization strategy, which aims to enhance the brand's international presence and reach broader audiences [2][3] - The company is expanding its global footprint through various cooperation models in countries such as Russia, Vietnam, Mongolia, Malaysia, and Indonesia [3] - Shangmei aims for substantial growth, targeting revenues of 10 billion yuan and eventually 30 billion yuan, as it navigates the global beauty market [3]